Mead Lover's Digest #1406 Sun 25 January 2009

 

Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor

 

Contents:

sulfiting (Dick Dunn)
pectin hazes and pectinase (Dick Dunn)
RE: Boiling water for mead (Paul Shouse)
Re: where did the flavor and aroma go? ("Dan McFeeley")
Re: where did the flavor and aroma go? (mail-box)
My First Attempt (Joe Kuhl)
information tools (dan@geer.org)
Use of acids to adjust flavor and other uses (Scoville Steve)
Sorbate and Sulfite (Scoville Steve)
Aeration after the start of fermentation (Scoville Steve)

 

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Subject: sulfiting
From: Dick Dunn <rcd@talisman.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 23:35:09 -0700


montveil <montveil@skybest.com> wrote in the last digest:

> You can make mead following the wine method tie:
> Use potassium sulfite at 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons.

That would be potassium metabisulfite. Anyway…

1/4 tsp per 5 gal is a modest dose, about equiv 3 Campden tablets for 5
gal. But how does the effect work out, anyway? IIRC, it's the pH of a
mead-must that is so ephemeral…and the effectiveness of sulfiting is
strongly dependent on pH.

> Add all your ingredients, honey to the alcohol level you want, acid blend,
> tannins, water etc
> Add sulfite. mix let stand 24-36 hours then add your re-hydrated yeast

If you're adding acid blend before fermentation, you're going to push the
pH down…but how much are you adding? That should determine the amount
of KMS.

Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA


Subject: pectin hazes and pectinase
From: Dick Dunn <rcd@talisman.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 23:48:24 -0700


"clayton green" <green.clayton@gmail.com> wrote:
> My favorite clearing agent for melomels is pectinase, an enzyme that chops
> up pectin, a carbohydrate in fruits. If you have an awesome melomel,
> repeated rackings will ultimately cost you volume. Time and gravity will
> clear melomels after bottling, but I've seen dramatic results with
> pectinase. I add whatever it says on the bottle. It's 1/2 teaspoon per
> gallon of must, I think.

and also, Arthur Torrey <arthur_torrey@comcast.net> wrote:
…[much snip]…
> The other possibility is that you may be suffering from a "Pectin Haze" –
> which the above treatment doesn't do as much with. Try adding some extra
> pectic enzyme to clear that up.

The effect of pectic enzyme (pectinase) is -strongly- inhibited by alcohol.
So if you think you could face a problem with a pectin haze–particularly
if you're working with fruit, or juice of a fruit, which can be high in
pectin–add the enzyme at the very start. Don't wait until you have a
persistent haze problem when you're at 10% abv or so! This is one of those
"an ounce of prevention…" situations.

If you think you've got a pectin haze at the end of fermentation, don't
despair! Add a good dose of pectinase and be patient…and remember the
lesson for next time.

Also, if you think you've got a pectin haze, you can test for it if it's
a significant haze: take a small sample and add two parts of alcohol to
it–very-high-proof ethanol or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) will work. If
this makes the haze congeal to a kind of glop, good chance it's a pectin
haze. (Thanks to cider expert Andrew Lea and his web site for this one.)
This can help you decide whether it's worth the big dose of pectinase and
a fair wait to get your melomel to clear.

Dick Dunn rcd@talisman.com Hygiene, Colorado USA


Subject: RE: Boiling water for mead
From: Paul Shouse <paulhshouse@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 18:29:57 +0900


>Subject: RE: Boiling water for mead
>From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce@aol.com>
>Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 15:31:44 -0500

>In MLD #1404, in responding to Joe Kuhl's question about whether or
>not to pasteurize or boil the honey, both Dick Adams and Paul Shouse
>recommend adding boiled water to the honey prior to pitching the
>yeast. I'm wondering why it is necessary to boil the water.

Good question Bill! In my case it's a hold-over from my beer brewing days:
make brewing water first.

Boiling tap water will remove chlorine, and aerating it thoroughly during
boiling will decompose bicarbonates and precipitate calcium and magnesium
carbonate.

Mixing in the honey should dissolve enough oxygen into the must to start out
with.

  • -Paul

Subject: Re: where did the flavor and aroma go?
From: "Dan McFeeley" <mcfeeley@keynet.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 10:46:33 -0600


On Fri, 16 Jan 2009, in MLD 1405 (where *does* the
time go?), Matthew Winne wrote:

>….I've tried a few recipes and in this example,
> the Peach Mead from The Complete Meadmaker.
> I let the mead rest in the carboy for months like
> the recipe said, hoping the alcohol flavor would
> calm down. Well, the mead cleared beautifully
> and it has a great color, however the peach
> aroma and flavor is completely gone. The alcohol
> flavor has lessed a bit, but the overall flavor is
> stale and bland. Is it oxidizing somewhere in
> the process? Is it sitting in the secondary too
> long? My air lock was on tight and filled with
> vodka, so I'm pretty sure I had it protected
> pretty well. This batch is drinkable, but a little
> disappointing. I was hoping for fresh peach
> flavor and aroma. I think I may try to salvage
> it by adding more peaches or peach juice.
> Any advice on what I'm doing wrong?

Hard to say, could be a lot of things.

I've haven't made a peach melomel myself,
but I've heard that it can be difficult to get
good peach flavor and aroma out of the
fruit. You have to use a goodly amount of
peach, and how much you get out of it will
also hinge on the varietal peach used, and
how good the peaches themselves are, i.e.,
picked at the peak of ripeness, a good
crop, etc.

Yeast strain could also be a factor. You'll
want a good yeast strain that brings the
best out of the melomel in terms of fruit
flavor and aroma.

What was the finishing gravity of the
melomel? Maybe it's too early to tell.
If what you have is a fairly young melomel
which finished out to dryness, a sufficient
aging period may be needed for the fruit
flavor to come back to the fore.

A little back sweetening could also work.
Again, if the melomel is dry, a little added
sweetness may pique the fruit flavor enough
to bring it back.

I'd suggest age and taste, then consider
whether or not to backsweeten. Remember
that with a dry melomel, the fruit flavor
should be subtle, definitely there but not
hitting you in the face with peach flavor
and aroma.

Hope this is helpful!

<><><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><>
Dan McFeeley

"Meon an phobail a thogail trid an chultur"
(The people's spirit is raised through culture)


Subject: Re: where did the flavor and aroma go?
From: mail-box <mail-box@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 21:14:23 -0500


> Subject: where did the flavor and aroma go?
> From: "Matthew Winne" <matthew.winne@gmail.com>
> Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 10:45:37 -0500
>
> I'm a homebrewer who's ventured into the realm of meadmaking a few times.
> Every mead I've made using a strain of brewers yeast turned out fine. Sure
> the alcohol content wasn't that high, but it was ready to drink in a few
> weeks. My problem is making mead using wine and champagne yeast strains.
> I've tried a few recipes and in this example, the Peach Mead from The
> Complete Meadmaker. I let the mead rest in the carboy for months like the
> recipe said, hoping the alcohol flavor would calm down. Well, the mead
> cleared beautifully and it has a great color, however the peach aroma and
> flavor is completely gone. The alcohol flavor has lessed a bit, but the
> overall flavor is stale and bland. Is it oxidizing somewhere in the
> process? Is it sitting in the secondary too long? My air lock was on tight
> and filled with vodka, so I'm pretty sure I had it protected pretty
> well. This batch is drinkable, but a little disappointing. I was hoping
> for fresh peach flavor and aroma. I think I may try to salvage it by adding
> more peaches or peach juice. Any advice on what I'm doing wrong

Matthew,

Do you take gravity readings? Because brewers yeast should be able to
make just as 'strong' a mead as a wine yeast, assuming the OG is the
same. A hot alcohol taste can come from a hot or stressed fermentation
as much as it can come from a high alcohol content. Make sure you
provide your yeast with the appropriate amount of nutrients and keep
them within their temperature range.

As to your question on flavor, peach can be a frustrating fruit to make
a melomel out of. I've used as much as 30 gallons in a 5 or 6 (memory
fails me) gallon
batch and had only a hint of peach flavor, which some quaffers could
not pick out at all. I make my meads wine style and add all ingredients
at the start, others have suggested that I make a straight mead (at
about 10%, since you'll be adding fermentables with the fruit) and once
that is done rack it on top of the peaches. So far I have yet to give
that method a try, so I can't say how it will change things. On the
stale and flat front, take a Ph reading. You might find that you need
acid. If you don't have the means to take a Ph reading, pour yourself a
tall glass and add a few drops of lemon juice and see if the flavor
doesn't improve.

Cheers,
Ken


Subject: My First Attempt
From: Joe Kuhl <joe.kuhl@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 21:14:34 -0700


I made my First batch, this past Wednesday, the 23rd. I made it using the
beginners recipe in "The Complete Meadmaker". I used Raspberry honey That
I got from Morse Mills Honey Co. in Moravia, N.Y. The cost was 47.50 for
a 12# jar, a 5# jar and 3- 2# jars. Right now it is in my bedroom closet
just bubbling away. When I bottle it I am planning on doing 1/2 of it
still and then adding more honey and bottling the rest sparkling.

Thank to all who answered my questions. You were all a big help.

Joe


Subject: information tools
From: dan@geer.org
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:28:53 -0500


I've been slowly building up some home-made spreadsheet
formats and some page formats I use for record keeping.
I'd imagine others have as well, but might we all share
some of this? I'm in if anyone else is.

  • –dan

…fixed width font…

ETOH production in brewing


5.0 gal/batch
15% final ETOH by volume
0.75 gal(ETOH)/batch
128 oz/gal
96 oz(ETOH)/batch
30 fermentation days
3.2 oz(ETOH)/day
2/15 oz(ETOH)/hr
7 1/2 hr/oz(ETOH)

 


Subject: Use of acids to adjust flavor and other uses
From: Scoville Steve <Steve@scovilleandassociates.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:22:28 -0600


I have been making meads for about a year and a half, and have yet to
use any acids or acid blend for anythiing.

I am producing fairly clean meads on a consistent basis but they tend
to be cloying sweet and out of balance.

Can anyone give me direction on how to use acids based on the final
gravity of the meads, and the final ranges generally accepted for dry,
medium, and sweet meads?

The use of different types of acids for different flavor characters is
also a subject I do not understand.

Also, should a mead maker use acids for management of PH if their
musts have no signs of fermentation issues?

If so, what is the guidance on this.

If there is a body of info in print, please direct me to it.

Any and all guidance would be appreciated.

The Earl of Sorta

Steve Scoville

Scoville & Associates, Inc.
740 Darden Place
Nashville, TN 37205

615-476-4933

Steve@scovilleandassociates.com

www.scovilleandassociates.com


Subject: Sorbate and Sulfite
From: Scoville Steve <Steve@scovilleandassociates.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:24:28 -0600


In some recent reading, I noticed the recommendation to "sorbate and
sulfite" before back sweetening.

I understand that sorbate, if properly used, will prevent the restart
of fermentation, but what is the sulfite for?

PLease advise.

The Earl of Sorta

Steve Scoville


Subject: Aeration after the start of fermentation
From: Scoville Steve <Steve@scovilleandassociates.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:28:04 -0600


Recent posts, writings, and mead making instructions seem to indicate
that in addition to multiple additions of nutrients to the must,
multiple infusions of oxygen are also advisable to maintain the health
of the cell wall.

I come from the beer making background and it is counterintuitive to
add O2 due to the concern about oxidation of the newly produced
alcohols.

Can anyone comment on this concern?

If there is no real concern, is it OK to use pure O2?

Thanks for the comments.

The Earl of Sorta

Steve Scoville



End of Mead Lover's Digest #1406