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Date: 10 Jun 1993 10:12:31 -0800
From: "Larry Lynch-Freshner" <Larry_Lynch-Freshner@taligent.com>
Subject: Stuck Ferm.
firstname.lastname@example.org (7226 Lacroix) writes:
I have a couple of batches going, different recipes, same problem.
Stuck fermentation!!! I tried repitching a few months ago, with no luck.
Oddly enough (or maybe just to me) 1 batch has cleared and still has a
very high (sorry I haven’t measured it in a while) gravity. The second
batch is still cloudy as it was on day one and the gravity remains high.
Both batches have been in the carboys for 6+ months. Any suggestions on
what types of yeasts I might try to get these babies crankin’ again???
When I have a stuct fermentation, I find that a pinch of MgSO4 (Epsom Salt)
usually does the trick. Magnesium is a mineral that yeast need to grow.
Copper is another needed mineral, altough I’ve never had a problem with it.
You could boil a penny to sterilize it and drop it into the fermenter. If the
mead has cleared, repitch after adding the minerals.
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 12:18:57 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mark Taratoot <SLNDW@CC.USU.EDU>
Subject: Questions and reports
Could anyone tell me the brewing characteristics of S. bayanas?
I tossed a mead together last night and am either going to pitch
S. cerviseae or S. bayanas_. Is S. bayanas sherry yeast?
If so, I assume it will give a strong flavor, which may be desired
since it is a somewhat high gravity mead (1.12+)
In case anyone is interested:
~4 cups Cox Snowberry honey
some chunks of ginger
-both simmered until no scum formed
1 tsp yeast nutrient
1 tsp acid blend
I am also interested if anyone here has used bentonite to clear mead.
I have a batch of cyser that is done fermenting, but there is
a bit of haze I want to settle out. My pyment is brilliant,
but it threw a sediment after it was in the bottle. I want to
keep this from happining in my cyser so it is easier to decant.
How much bentonite should I use? Should I make a slurry?
About how long will it take before I can rack off of this
I bottled the Wassail, albeit prematurely. I just wanted to have
some mead I could sample while the rest is aging and finishing.
This was a lower gravity (1.090) mead that was fermented with
ale yeast. It was a simple concoction of honey, water, acid,
and yeast nutrient. When the sg reached ~1.020 I figured the yeast
was about concked out, even though the mead was degassing still
and still cloudy. I bottled it without priming, and it is clearing
nicely in the bottle, and not too much sediment. This mead was
not simmered, so there is a layer of wax/pollen floating
on top. I also made another similar, but higher gravity (1.112) mead
using a winemaking strain of S. cerviseae, and I racked it last night.
SG down to 1.020. Should be done in 2 more months.
The next attempt will be a cherry mead. We have 2 pie cherry
trees in the yard and the cherries will be ripe in the next
few weeks(?) Anybody have any suggestions how many cherries
By the way…
Mead is wonderful!
Date: 10 Jun 1993 18:01:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mint Mead Again...
Jilara asked about the mint I used in my meads.
Yes, it is dried. I’ve had very poor luck with fresh mints (not in using,
just aquiring in my area, or with growing). 2 tablespoons of dried per gal
of water has also earned me complaints from friends that it’s too strong (unless
that’s a mistype from my files, it’s been a long while since I’ve made mint
mead, since I was the ONLY person that liked it…). At any rate, it should
be enough to make a strong tea in an equal portion of water (I DO remember that
much). Oh, and that’s an equal portion of water to your ending mead volume, not
your starting water quantity (since 4 four gals of starting water will fetch
about 5 gal of mead once honey is added with the meathods I’ve been using).
BTW, what’s a ‘julip’? ;>
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End of Mead Lover’s Digest