Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #1245, 31 January 2006
From: mead-request@talisman.com
Mead Lover's Digest #1245 Tue 31 January 2006
Mead Lover's Digest #1245 Tue 31 January 2006
Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming
Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor
Chlorine usage ("Charles Gee")
new mead maker planning on fermenting in the bottle? ("Rick")
re:Oxygen in the Fermentation (Phil) (Phil)
Re: New with questions ("jamesbrown")
re:Oxygen in the Fermentation (Mail Box)
re: Metheglyn question (Mail Box)
International Mead Festival attendees? ("Brian McGovney")
Re: New with questions (David Collins-Rivera)
Tannin in mead (Robert Keith Moore)
Re: Meeting of Meaders (MLCrary@aol.com)
how to tell? (canwebowlnow@aol.com)
Ideas for a recipe? (canwebowlnow@aol.com)
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Subject: Chlorine usage
From: "Charles Gee" <cgee@mhtv.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 20:02:06 -0800
For what it is worth (about 5cents on the dollar) I fail to see what all
this fuss is about cheap, easy, and available Bleach.
Bleach is simply a solution of chlorine and if you are on a municipal water
system that is what is used to sanitize your water.
So any tap water you use has some"bleach" in it already.
I have been brewing beer, ales, wine and mead for more years than I care to
remember and have always used "Bleach" to sanitize/sterilize everything with
the exception of airlocks which get sulphite solution.
Simple process indeed fill a carboy(23 liter) up on the decanting shelf with
hot water and a cup of bleach, stick in the siphon tube and fill the bottles
leave them for 20 minutes drain and RINSE at least twice. I do it the easy
way with a hose on the faucet. Fill the bottles and cap. I used to fuss with
corks but moved to 350ml crown cap bottles as they are the perfect size for
a glass each for two. Never had a problem – probably because no one told me
I would. If I have to sanitize a primary then I use the same measure but I
also chuck in the Hydrometer, sample jar, wine thief, measuing jug and
anything else hanging around. All get the the double/triple rinse with the
chlorinated tap water and I go on my merry way. And the siphon tube gets
sterile as well into the bargain
Charles Gee
Subject: new mead maker planning on fermenting in the bottle?
From: "Rick" <beekeepers@insightbb.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 01:31:11 -0600
> 4) I plan to ferment in-bottle as opposed to using a carboy. Someone I know
> suggested a particular bottle with a cap that latches on and lets the
> pressure
> out as needed (don't need any bottle bombs!) Can someone clarify/suggest?
Yes, I can clarify. Don't do it. Ferment in-bottle? Please say no.
Bucket, carboy, tub, anything but in the bottle. Dangerous, and bad for
the mead. One must get the mead off the lees(leftover yeast residue
that settles to the bottom of the container) to avoid bad tasting mead.
Rick
Subject: re:Oxygen in the Fermentation (Phil)
From: Phil <dogglebe@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 01:45:38 -0800 (PST)
> Phil
> It is not a matter of "feeling good" I simply want to know what is going
> on. I was really looking for some one to explain how and when oxygen is
> important to the yeast and when is it harmful to the yeast.
> Why is it OK to "aerate it a second time after a few hours, but no more
> after that."?
Must, much like wort, can absorb only so much oxygen
at a time. Also, if you the batch by shaking it, you
can get pretty tired. This is why you can aearte it a
again a few hours later. The yeast will use up this
oxygen during its reproduction phase. Once it starts
fermenting, the oxygen is pretty much spent. Adding
more oxygen during the fermentation phase will result
in oxydizing the batch, leaving your batch tasting
like cardboard and/or sherry.
Phil
Subject: Re: New with questions
From: "jamesbrown" <jamesbrown@iowatelecom.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:17:02 -0600
> I'm only using roughly 2 litres of infusion/water. How much
> honey should I use?
A pound and a half (one US pint) would give you a gravity of 1.104 and a
potential alcohol (fermented dry) of 14%
> What kind of yeast would you suggest?
My suggestion would be a white wine yeast such as Lalvin 71B-1122 or D-47;
or possibly a sweet mead or ale yeast
> Someone I know suggested a particular bottle with a cap
> that latches on and lets the pressure out as needed
Bad idea
Risky at best
Airlocks are cheap, but failing that, I would suggest putting a pin-picked
balloon over the mouth of the bottle
Subject: re:Oxygen in the Fermentation
From: Mail Box <mail-box@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 15:05:32 -0500
> From: Robert Keith Moore <Rob@ineedachef.com>
> Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 00:33:15 -0800
>
> Phil
> It is not a matter of "feeling good" I simply want to know what is going
> on. I was really looking for some one to explain how and when oxygen is
> important to the yeast and when is it harmful to the yeast.
> Why is it OK to "aerate it a second time after a few hours, but no more
> after that."?
>
> Thanks
Robert,
It's a complex subject, and one that I can by no mean claim that I
understand completely. There are a good number of web sites that you
can find via a quick search on the terms "yeast and oxygen" and similar
phrases which will explain it much more completely than I could hope to.
The quick and dirty explanation is that oxygen is good while the yeast
are still in an aerobic phase and will utilize it, and bad once the
yeast move to an anaerobic phase and will not use it, which leaves it to
oxidize your mead.
Here is a quote by the respected Dr. Clayton Cone, and the web site I
drew it from:
http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/beerfaq.html
"The best time to begin adding the Oxygen is around the 14th hour when
the yeast is hungriest for the O2. If all the O2 is added at the
beginning, a substantial amount of it will be wasted."
This is another web site by Dr. Cone which may assist you:
http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/InFerment/Clayton_Hints.html
Cheers,
Ken Taborek
Subject: re: Metheglyn question
From: Mail Box <mail-box@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 15:23:49 -0500
> Subject: Metheglyn question
> From: Jeannette <JeanneNoSpam@comcast.net>
> Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 13:44:56 -0800
>
> After thinking it over, my plans for the year have changed slightly. I still
> plan to make two batches, but the melomel will be a strawberry-blueberry, and
> the other batch will be a metheglyn – a masala chai metheglyn. Here's the
> tentative recipe based on my chai recipe, and I'd appreciate any feedback on
> it. >
> Black pepper, whole 1 tsp
> Ginger, fresh 2 tsp
> Cloves, whole 1 tsp
> Orange zest 2 tsp
> Galangal 2 tsp
> Cinnamon, chips 3 tsp
> Cardamon seed 4 Tbl
> Almonds, slivered 2 tsp
> Black tea 6 tbls
> Yeast nutrient 1 oz
> Irish moss 1 oz
>
> Boil in 2 gallons water for 30-45 minutes.
I would be cautious about boiling all of these ingredients. Boiling
will extract bitter elements which you may not want in your mead.
Instead, I would either steep for 5 minutes or so in hot water, then
strain and add the water, or add the spices to the primary and rack off
of them immediately after the primary has completed (which should be in
about 3-7 days).
> Pour over 12 lbs heated honey into
> primary and stir to dissolve honey. Add cold water to 5 gallon level, and 2
> tbls vanilla extract. Pitch sweet mead yeast when wort cools to below 90
> degrees F.
>
> Ferment until dry. Rack into 4 pounds honey and more yeast nutrient. Repeat
> ad nauseum 🙂 Eventually, add sorbate then rack onto honey for sweetness,
> and mix with heavy cream to bottle.
Bottling with cream is not a technique I am familiar with. Can you
share your source for this method? Have you done this previously, and
how did the mead turn out?
If you haven't done this before and aren't aware of how it will turn
out, you might want to try this with only a portion of your mead, and
simply add the cream at the time of serving with the rest.
> I'm a bit worried about all the plant material fermenting to methanol. Should
> I strain this out before adding it to the honey?
>
> Jeannette
Cheers,
Ken Taborek
Subject: International Mead Festival attendees?
From: "Brian McGovney" <brian.mcgovney@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 21:07:46 -0800
Hi all,
Frequent lurker, infrequent poster. Who's going to the International Mead
Festival next month? I'm all set to go, and was wondering if any MLD members
would want to meet up for an MLD breakfast at the hotel one morning.
Cheers,
Brian McGovney
Strand Brewers Club
Redondo Beach, CA
Subject: Re: New with questions
From: David Collins-Rivera <lostnbronx@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 13:52:29 -0700
> Subject: New with questions
> From: canwebowlnow@aol.com
> Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:27:44 EST
>
> I'm brand new to making mead, so I've got plenty of questions. Due to funding
> limitations and availability of supplies (mostly I ran out of the herbs
> I was using and can't buy more atm) I'm running a very small batch this first
> time around. Basically I made up a batch of strong herbal infusion that I'm
> using for the liquid/flavor base. My goal is a sweet (hopefully not
> oversweet), not too dry mead. *big breath* So, here goes:
>
> 1) I'm only using roughly 2 litres of infusion/water. How much honey should
> I use?
1 1/2 to 2 pounds will give you a semi-sweet to sweet mead, depending
upon your yeast and nutrients.
> 2) What kind of yeast would you suggest?
I'd go with Lalvin D-47, which has proven to be a workhorse for mead makers.
> 3) Do I need to provide extra nutrients for the yeast, or will the infusion
> and honey be enough?
You will want some kind of nutrient, such as Fermaid-K, and/or
diammonium phosphate (DAP). Alternatively, you can add a dozen or so
finely chopped raisins, which will provide your yeasties with a nice
range of nutrients without adding a noticeable vinous, or wine-like,
quality.
> 4) I plan to ferment in-bottle as opposed to using a carboy. Someone I know
> suggested a particular bottle with a cap that latches on and lets the pressure
> out as needed (don't need any bottle bombs!) Can someone clarify/suggest?
This sounds like the EZ-Cap brand of screw-on fermentation locks,
which act as normal water locks (without the water) but which can then
remain on the bottle after fermentation is done to act as a stand-in
for traditional screw-on caps. The only EZ-Caps that I've seen are
designed to be used with plastic 2-liter soda bottles, though they
probably make a range of sizes. I've never used them, nor have I read
reliable feedback about them, but I've seen these and similar products
for sale by vendors from around the world. They are often available
on Ebay for just a few bucks.
> 5) Do you think the infusion will provide enough flavor, or should I plan on
> adding additional herbs at some point in the fermentation?
This is a matter of both personal taste, and, certainly, recipe. The
best route is to taste it after primary fermentation is over to see if
the spice level is where you want it. Do this a few times, on a few
different batches, and you'll start to get a sense of what, when, and
how much to add. Remember that you can always put more in, but you
can't take it back once you have, so you want to be on target. A
conservative approach is always safer to start.
> I'm sure I'll come up with more later. lol I think that's enough for now
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress!
- -David
Subject: Tannin in mead
From: Robert Keith Moore <Rob@ineedachef.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 11:56:25 -0800
Hey,
Do any of you guys add grape tannin to your meads? Does it make much
difference? What tis the recommended dosage?
thanks,
Robert
Subject: Re: Meeting of Meaders
From: MLCrary@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 23:40:15 EST
Greetings to the Mead Folk,
How many of you will be at the Meadfest in Boulder this February? I
hear there are many, many entries (I seem to remember over 100) in the
Homebrewers Mead competition. There is no official get together for the
homebrewers, but I would be glad to host an unofficial one if people are
interested. I live about a mile from the site of the Fest. It is about a 15
or 20 minute walk (I'm out of shape and slow, and the rest of you won't be
used to the altitude) and you can walk almost the entire way on off-street
paths, or it's about a 4 or 5 minute drive. I was thinking of a brunch or
snacks on Saturday, depending on the time. I thought maybe getting together
for a couple of hours before the festival starts would be good. If you are
coming to Boulder, or are here already, and are interested, please let me
know at MLCrary@aol.com. If you have suggestions as to the nature of the
gathering, include that, too. Hope to see you soon.
Marcia & Rebecca from the Unicorn Unchained Meadery
Subject: how to tell?
From: canwebowlnow@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 06:19:36 EST
How long does it take to get a good ferment going at room temp? How can you
tell? I made the mistake of setting my must to ferment in dark amber glass
when I made it a couple days ago (a selection of herbs in infusion and
blackberry honey), so I'm having a hard time telling if the fermentation
has taken off yet. I doubt it would quite have an alcohol smell to it
just yet, though the must is started to smell slightly "off" in a good way
(did that make any sense?). So I'm hoping.
Janelle Leek
Onora ingyen Riocaird
Wolves Den, Clan Risio (Petitioning)
Subject: Ideas for a recipe?
From: canwebowlnow@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 07:37:19 EST
I want to try setting up a cherry-blackberry mead, kinda sweet and not dry.
Still deciding between clover or blackberry honey (maybe the clover as I'll
already have the blackberry in there?) I'll probably only be able to manage a
gallon-1.5 gallon batch with this. I don't plan to start this one for another
month or so as I currently have some new must taking up my primary glassware
atm. Once I rack that at the end of February I want to start this one.
Guessing in Oregon I'll have to find/use frozen blackberries as I doubt I'll
find fresh this time of year.
Janelle Leek
Onora ingyen Riocaird
Wolves Den, Clan Risio (Petitioning)
End of Mead Lover's Digest #1245
- Mead Lover’s Digest #1653 Sat 4 January 2014 - January 8, 2014
- Mead Lover’s Digest #1652 Sun 29 December 2013 - January 8, 2014
- Mead Lover’s Digest #1651 Sun 3 November 2013 - November 9, 2013