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C-3PAle - 5gal - Partial Mash

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Corcis

Worker Bee
Registered Member
Oct 30, 2008
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We're going to a partial mash brew this weekend. First time doing partial mash, fourth time brewing. Our setup is the same as detailed in BYO a couple years ago in "Countertop Partial Mashing." This time around, I used The Recipator to actually work out the recipe and came up with something real.

But, I digress. We're hoping for a light color pale ale, aiming for a low alcohol level and we're going to use some of the yeast from this to help start up our barleywine sometime next week. In case you're worried, it shall be named Brewbacca. Here's the recipe. Any ideas as to which mash bill to use?

Mash Bill 1
3lb 2-row malt
8oz Munich
8oz Dextrin Malt

OR

Mash Bill 2
2lb 10oz 2-row malt
8oz Munich
8oz Dextrin Malt
6oz Crystal 40L

---

5.0-5.3lb Light Malt Extact
1oz Irish Moss

---

0.4oz Chinook @ 60min
0.4oz Colombus @ 60min
0.5oz Cascade @ 30min
0.5oz Chinook @ 30min
0.5oz Cascade @ 0min

IBUs: 48

(Going to adjust amounts for AAU listed on packages...)

---

Shooting for a 1.057sg and somewhere around 1.013fg. I'm going to make a 1/2gal starter today with a Wyeast smack pack and we plan on brewing on Saturday.

Am I missing anything? Preference on the mash bill?
 
Looks like you've done your homework...should make a nice American Pale Ale.

I am assuming you used Garetz formula for the IBU's...you may be surprised to find the IBU closer to 60 by my calcs...not a problem if you like the hops.

You also didn't mention what yeast you planned to use, but the FG looks like maybe Wyeast American Ale (just a guess).
 
I guess it depends on your extract. Do you know any specifics about it? Fermentability? Color?

If your extract is highly fermentable and lends very little color, you could go with #2 and add a little crystal malt for some sweetness/color. On the other hand, if you've got a less-fermentable and/or darker extract, I'd stick with #1 to keep it light and dry. Full boil or partial? Partial tends to darken the wort, so again you'd go with #1 to keep it lighter. Another technique is the late extract addition, where you add the extract near the end of the boil (~10 mins) to keep it from darkening. You'd have to adjust your hopping rate to account for the lower gravity during the boil.

If you're not sure about your extract, then you just have to decide if you want it slightly darker/sweeter or not. That's really the only difference you'll see with 6 oz of crystal. It will lend a small amount of color and a little bit of residual sugar. If it were me I'd go with #1 and see how it comes out. Start with less, then tweak as necessary. I'd even be tempted to leave out either the Munich or the dextrin on the first try as well.

Sounds like a nice recipe. Let us know how it goes.
 
To answer above questions/respond to comments:
- It will be a full boil using the extract-late method. I have a wort chiller, so I'm not too concerned about cooling it. If you have a link to something that would help with calculating IBUs based on this knowledge, that would be appreciated! I don't think The Recipator takes it into account.

- I will be using Wyeast 1056 American Ale. Making a starter for it right now - 4c water, 1c malt extract; boil 20min, add to sanitized growler (through sanitized funnel), pitch yeast.

- I don't really know the specs on the extract and totally forgot to ask the LHBS guy.

- IBU Calculation Method: Tinseth. I checked Rager as well, it spit out 55 on the new hoppings.

---

I had somewhat of a D'OH! moment earlier when I realized the LHBS doesn't carry everything I want. So, recipe changing, here I come!

Hops:
- Cascades @ 6%AA
- Centennial @ 9.4%AA - replaces Chinook
- Horizon @ 14.6%AA - replaces Colombus

Actually, leaving them at the same masses added at the same times, just adjusting the AA% in Recipator shows only a 3pt variation in IBUs. Tinseth's Utilization schedule shows 45IBU; Rager shows 55IBU. I'm not too concerned about this - either would be suitable for our tastes.

Grains:
- 3lbs Organic 2-row malt
- .5lb Dextrin malt
- .5lb Great Western Pale malt
- got but probably won't use: .5lb Crystal 30-35L

I think I'm going to skip the Crystal and decided against the Munich malt.
 
I like your changes in the grain bill, it should come out nice. :)

For the hop calculation, I've always just run the recipe without the extract to see what it says. Your OG will come out wonky, etc. but you just need to see what it says about the hops. Since it's a partial mash full boil with close to 50% of the fermentables from grains, you shouldn't see the efficiency move by a whole lot. Partial boils are particularly susceptible to this effect, however, since the sugars get concentrated to a much higher degree.
 
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