Sediment, Yeast, Fining, Filtration

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Ivar

NewBee
Registered Member
Dec 13, 2011
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0
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Hey All -

My partner and I are starting a 1000 gal/yr operation this year (TTB biggest headache of all), and I had some questions/observations to make concerning cloudiness or sediment after bottling.

Starting with the comment -- I have run a total of three yeast profiles (tests) on the honey sources we will be using. I have noticed a dramatic difference in the fermentation characteristics, including the time it takes for the yeast to floc and the clarity in the fermenter. These effects are quite dramatic, and I was surprised that my "Favorite" yeast was one of the worse performers (but by far better than some of the others) in this regard. That's my observation. My question, then, is whether the necessity of filtration or fining can be eliminated by better yeast choices?

Beyond the observations, how many on this list consider fining or filtration essential in commercial mead making? If so, what is the least damaging (flavor wise) and the least costly way to reliably produce our volume?

Other than fining/filtration (and leaving out cold-shocking which is not cost effective at this time) what can be done to avoid sedimentation after bottling (and sitting for 6 months)?

Thanks all...

Cheers

Ivar
 
Yeast strain will definitely have a huge effect on clearing, as some are more prone to flocculate.

Certain things generally help with clearing that are not technically fining agents. Oak, or tannin in general, usually helps. I've found citrus (e.g. orange zest) speeds things along. Cacao nibs are remarkably good clearing agents.

Other things you can do include a gentle stirring/resuspension of the lees during post-fermentation aging/settling. The yeast you stir up tends to help pick up some of the yeast still in suspension. How effective this is will depend again on yeast strain to some extent. Also keeping the mead degassed will help, but the gentle stir will do that too.

Other than fining or filtering, I don't know of another way to get good shelf stability other than really long aging. I assume that is out for cash flow reasons. As far as I can tell, filtering is preferred for commercial operations since it can be incorporated in-line with the bottling equipment.
 
That's some pretty sound advice from akuek.

Really, if you want to leave out filtering, your best bet is extended bulk aging and educating your customer base that sediment in the bottle isn't necessarily bad.

Also, it may depend on what type of mead you're making. A lot of commercial wine makers don't filter. From what I've read, a lot of whites ARE filtered, as they find less damage is done. Whereas reds are more likely to not be filtered as stripping of tannin and color is a bigger concern. Of course these are established wineries that can afford to age things for several years before bottling.

How much of that will transfer to mead, I'm not sure since there isn't a huge amount of data on it but it is something to think about.
 
Probably not as hard as it might sound. Sierra Nevada gets away with it.

Yeah, but that's from a beer angle. Bottle-finished beers are not all that uncommon anymore. Mead is closer to wine though in the bottle presentation, so it would be a tough sell. Tartaric crystals aka "wine diamonds" and sediment in big reds are tolerated. Fluff at the bottom of your "white wine" would not go over well.
 
Also, it may depend on what type of mead you're making. A lot of commercial wine makers don't filter. From what I've read, a lot of whites ARE filtered, as they find less damage is done. Whereas reds are more likely to not be filtered as stripping of tannin and color is a bigger concern. Of course these are established wineries that can afford to age things for several years before bottling.

How much of that will transfer to mead, I'm not sure since there isn't a huge amount of data on it but it is something to think about.

I would venture that nearly ALL whites are filtered. In my experience the places that don't will specifically call out "unfiltered" on the label, often right there on the front. It's unusual enough for them to point it out and actually sell it as a "totally different wine". [to be fair, they can be quite different from their filtered friends even from the same winery--though that might also be due to style selection knowing that one will be filtered and the other not.]

Reds will tolerate a lot less filtering simply because you don't spend much time looking through them. If they are dark enough, no one will notice a slight haze. Same thing goes for dark beers--go ahead and leave them cloudy and no one will care. More than that, the changes in clarity over time, i.e. sedimentation, won't change the overall color of a red wine or dark beer very much. A light-colored liquid will change a lot in appearance with even a little sedimentation. For the sake of marketing, it's really a good idea to have your product at least look the same on the shelf or in the wine cellar after one week or six months.
 
White wines are usually fined to prevent protein precipitation.

With meads, boiling/heating the must can prevent sedimentation later, but the effect on aroma/flavor may be significant if you choose this alternative.

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White wines are usually fined to prevent protein precipitation.

With meads, boiling/heating the must can prevent sedimentation later, but the effect on aroma/flavor may be significant if you choose this alternative.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

TRUE _ Very important - Take note about this - When I made 5 gallons batches I boiled the must, but when I started to make 60 gallons batches I started to use sulphite, doing this, honey's proteins weren't denaturalized as during boiling. In consequence, proteins coagulated very slow. I had to take out from stores my first two batches because of proteins' sediment. It took me 2 years to find out what was going on and I had to interrupt my commercial production until this issue was solved.

Certain things generally help with clearing that are not technically fining agents. Oak, or tannin in general, usually helps.

They are part of the solution. The thing is that we need to help protein on their coagulation process. Said so, I also use Bentonite and/or Sparkolloid.

There are a lot of things written against filtration, this is my opinion:

  • You will notice a change, if any, only if you have an excepcional and well trained nose and palate.
  • Your clients won't notice any change because they won't have access to your "unfiltered originals".
  • Filtered looks better and as we say - Love comes through the eyes.

"Whites"

  • I filter every time I rack - I use Coarse pads.
  • Fine pads 4 months before bottling
  • Sterile pads 2 month before bottling. On this moment I leave 3 witnessing bottles - if after one month, or two, there aren't any sediments I proceed to bottle the complete batch.
  • Inspite witnessing bottles result, I use Sterile Absolute Cartidges during bottling.

"Reds" - Soon I'll know, but my plan is to stay on fine pads.

Saludos,
 
Thanks, more ???s

Good information, I would like to know then the following:

If resuspension/aging is employed, what time would it take typically (for a given yeast strain, and if you mention it I can extrapolate on the ones we use)? If we are talking a couple of months, maybe, but if 6+ it's a no-go. I don't have the real estate for a double size operation. We plan to make separate batches in conicals, not racking, only dumping lees, after fermentation stops. Four to six weeks prior to dumping lees, and an additional 6-12 weeks before bottling. We will have an age tank as well for small quantities of reserve meads, but we can't use it for all four ferms. So far we have been doing 4 weeks primary and 4-6 secondary (out of carboys) and the meads have been excellent, with only minor sediment (a dusting if you will) after 6 months.

Fining additives - as I understand, if fining agents are used then there MUST be filtration according to TTB. If instead we use "alternative" fining "additives" like cacao, does this preclude the need to filter? I would be VERY interested to hear more about these additives if this be the case. Without exception, EVERY commercial mead I have tried (four producers and roughly ten different meads) that has been fined and filtered (and sulfited) is just about undrinkable -- no character, and most sickly sweet.

As far as the sediment makeup, how much is protein coming out and how much is settled yeast? I have seen a major mead maker, who bottles in blue bottles, whose mead is fined and filtered and sulfited and still (besides having to dump most of the bottle out because it was terrible) there is sediment on the bottom, more than we see after six months. I suspect it is protein, but not sure. Ours doesn't really seem to add sediment over time, so maybe ours is a yeast/racking issue, but I can't be too sure of that either.

As far as the beer/education strategy, this is in fact what I had in mind. We live in a microbrew area, so we are fortunate in that regard, as most of the popular beers here are more on the "natural" end. But mainly, I think that mead made without fining and filtration is the BEST tasting by far (Sorry, I don't think the effect is subtle at all), and the residual yeast seems to help with the hangover end of things (B vitamins anyone?). I would rather market to folks who can appreciate the beverage in its "correct" state than pander to snobby wine enthusiasts who would prefer a crystal clear bottle with undrinkable contents. After talking to many of the local wine and beer shops, this idea (marketing to primarily beer drinkers and explaining the obvious benefits of a process which leaves in sediment) seems to be the general consensus among them as well.

All that said, I realize I may be fooling myself, but we plan on going with brown bottles and I just want to use the best procedure for preventing sedimentation without destroying the mead's character. We make mostly dry meads, btw, so maybe that has an effect too?

Oh yeah, orange zest is awesome in mead! We make a dry metheglin that has it (along with lemongrass, ginger and coriander), and it is my favorite.

Cheers

Ivar
 
Ivar: I think that each procedure has its particular goal.

If resuspension/aging is employed.

Never did it, but this is what I think about this. If you do resuspension, lees will precipitate faster than the first time because yeast already floculated, so it's just deadweight.

Now let me ask you: Why are you planning to do it? What is the benefit to your mead?



Fining additives - as I understand, if fining agents are used then there MUST be filtration according to TTB.

Here, it doesn't matter whether I use finning agents agents or not, I have to filter, It's our law.


As far as the sediment makeup, how much is protein coming out and how much is settled yeast?

Most of sediment comes from floculated yeast after fermentation and during clarification. In my case they are usally clear/white color, that's what I have seen. Most of them fall in week number 8, but they still falling during the first 6 aging month. Again, this my particular experience.

Protein sediments are by far much less than yeast sediment, also protein sediment looks diferent and yes they do uglyfy your bottles, they make them look ... dirty. Protein sediments are dark and looks kind of oily. The longest time have seen them falling is 3 years, and they stop falling after I use bentonite. With time protein sediments will stick on bottles' bottom and you'll invest few minute to wash them out.


I would rather market to folks who can appreciate the beverage in its "correct" state than pander to snobby wine enthusiasts who would prefer a crystal clear bottle with undrinkable contents ...


Well, every commercial meadery has to pick a niche to serve, and after that you only have one thing to do ... implement a strategy that should be coherent to your decision, then tooth and naildefend it. Only time will tell you if you did a good choice or not.

In my case, I'm pandering to snobby wine enthusiasts.

Saludos,
 
Noe -

The goal is simple - get the clearest mead with the least amount of interference. As natural as possible, and with minimal effect on the flavor and aroma. We are fortunate to have some very rich honey here, with a lot of floral and citrus characteristics. Our meads have a ton of character because of it (and in relation to other commercial meads out there that we have tried), and I want to retain as much of that as possible.

This is the reason I am tirelessly trying different yeast strains. I just racked another four-yeast test and sampled each. Not only were the fermentation (and clarification) characteristics very distinct but there was a vast difference in flavor and aroma, and this is in danger of being destroyed in fining and filtration.

This will likely be argued ad infinitum, but I look at mead making not as a brewers art nor a winemakers. Because the yeast has a tremendous effect on the final product, it stands to reason that removing it entirely is detrimental, unlike with wines, which get little from the yeast. Scores of very successful, SMALL craft breweries have succeeded in changing people's perception of what "beer" should be. I guess I am a bit too adamant that mead makers not shy away from taking on people's perceptions of our beloved beverage.

More importantly it is not beer, it is not wine, it is mead! Therefore, what makes the "best" mead? For me, if I DON'T see sediment or a label that says unfiltered I probably won't buy it in a store. Many others think the opposite. The question is, are there enough like me (and my partner) that just want an amazing taste experience and can live with a little (not a lot) film on the bottom?

But like you said, there are different markets and different tastes, and if we want to increase awareness we need to get good product on the shelves however we can. For us, I am becoming more convinced that in taking a stand for what I consider to be the best I can make, I will keep looking for ways to improve clarity without fining and filtration. If the market won't bear that, I will accept change, at least temporarily, but not until then.

Incidentally, Bell's Brewery (and many enology sites) has a great blurb on yeast and sediment, along the lines of what we will promote...
 
The goal is simple - get the clearest mead with the least amount of interference. As natural as possible, and with minimal effect on the flavor and aroma.

Hi Ivar: There's nothing natural in our, mine and your, mead making. If you want to do something real natural you should start with wild yeast, no wine yeast, no beer yeast. But that's just insane, right?


... there was a vast difference in flavor and aroma, and this is in danger of being destroyed in fining and filtration.

If you mean yeast's flavors then your right, but if you mean mead flavor ... it depends to cartridge's material. I use the most neutral cartridge I could find up there.

Remember, not everybodys like yeast's flavor.


SMALL craft breweries have succeeded in changing people's perception of what "beer" should be. I guess I am a bit too adamant that mead makers not shy away from taking on people's perceptions of our beloved beverage.

Be careful. Beer has never leave the market, it was there at least for the last 3 thousand years. Draft beer was always there, don't take the US as your main argument or as an example, because in England, Bavaria, Bratislava, etc. the draft beer had always been there, in their pubs and festivals. So it was "kind of easy" to do it again in the US.

But It's not mead's case. Mead left the market ... 3 or 4 hundred years ago, it's a long time and the memory is short. Even more, our mead is quite different from "that mead". We are not making people remember mead, what really is happening is that, in spite history, we are offering a new product.

And like it or not, the closest thing we have to "mead of our time" is ... wine and if my potential client is used to drink wine, well, I'll surf that wave and I'll offer them something that they will acept in the easiest way. After all I'm not educating them, I don't want to change the world, I just want to sell my mead, I'm trying to run a business and there's a law in business:

The easiest way is always the right way.

Oh God! - It's Ockham again, I meet him every where.


I'm lazy, so I prefer to leave to you and to future generations of mazers the task of selling "real mead".

Saludos,
 
Yeast selection definitely impacts grape wine too, it's not a mead-specific phenomenon. Very often winemakers will blend barrels fermented with different strains to create the desired flavor profile. The beer analogy is probably gueze, which is also blended from different barrels and even different years.

I agree with Noe that your main sediment-former is going to be yeast solids. Protein content in honey is very low, so unless you're adding a bunch there won't be much to form sediment.

Given your relatively short timeline, I think fining and filtering are probably the way you'll have to go. Filtering is not, however, inherently evil. You can overdo it and strip a lot of flavor, sure, but you can also filter gently (larger filter size, play with flow rates, etc) and reduce the removal of desirable flavor/aroma.

I would also caution linking filtering to your experience with commercial mead that is very sweet and/or flabby. I would bet money that the filtering process has nothing to do with those "flaws". Everyone I've introduced to mead expects it to be sweet (once they learn it's from honey and not some Viking beer thing). A lot of producers are simply giving people what they expect to find.

Out of curiosity, have you tried any of the mead made by some of the commercial folks who occasionally stop by here: Long Island, Fox Hill, B Nektar...?
 
We're going "Natural"

So it's decided -- we think we have what it takes to go the craft beer market route. Met with many beer shops, and yesterday a local beer distributor who REALLY wants our product. He thinks the tiny bit of protein haze (only on a couple of our more aromatic metheglins) is a non-issue to those we are targeting.

In the end, we applied three criteria to all of our possibilities -- 1.) does it make the mead taste and smell better, 2.) does it make the mead look better in the glass, and 3.) does it make it more natural? Fining and filtration only improve clarity, only one component of appearance, at the expense of color, while it degrades ALL others substantially. So it was easy for us.

Breaking ground on the new meadery today, wish us luck!

Ivar
 
Fining and filtration only improve clarity, only one component of appearance, at the expense of color, while it degrades ALL others substantially.

Breaking ground on the new meadery today, wish us luck!

Ivar

That isn't completely true. Fining may improve the aroma and flavor, and may soften bitter tannins in some batches. The only way you will know with yours is to try it on a sample with some blind triangular testing.

In any case, I wish you success in your endeavor!

Medsen


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