Should I still add nutrients if maybe past 50% fermentation point?

[otherchuck]

Greetings,

I started brewing a batch of mead on Saturday (today is Tues) and I added the first stage of nutrients at that time (4.5g Fermaid/4.5g DAP). About 24 hours later, when there was definitely active fermentation going on, I added the second stage of nutrients (2.8g Fermaid/2.8g DAP), and stirred the must vigorously at that time. Yesterday, I was too busy, and didn't do anything at all to the must, but very early this morning (Tues), I stirred it.

When I get home tonight (about 5 hours from right now, lets say), I plan to stir again, take a hydrometer reading, and add the third stage nutrients if the the fermentation seems to be near the halfway point (based on hydrometer readings).

My question is this: It has been an acceptably vigorous fermentation process so far, and I am wondering if maybe I am already past that halfway point. At what point should I consider the fermentation process to be so far along, that I am better off not doing the third stage of nutrient addition (1.8g Fermaid/1.8g DAP)?

That doesn't sound like a lot of nutrients, so I suspect it will be fine to add them even if I am noticeably past the midpt, but I am eager to hear what others think.

Also, at what point should I stop aerating/stirring the must? Also around the midpoint?

It is possible that the fermentation process hasn't progressed as far as I think it has, but as I say, it has been pretty vigorous for a few days. I am seeking advice now, so I can make the correct decision tonight if...when I read the hydrometer...I find that I am noticeably past the midway point.

The 5-gallon batch consists of 15lbs clover honey, and I used rehydrated Lalvin DV-10 yeast. There are no other fruits or herbs in the must.

Thanks!

Chuck

 

[Jim H]

I understand your frustration. I am learning the fine points, myself! Welcome to the forum, by the way.

However - there are two nutrients that you can still add to the must after the 1/3 point - IF and WHEN you think they are necessary. I boil bread yeast in a little water for a few minutes (others nuke it in some water for a little while). When it cools, mix it in. My batches love it, within 8 hours, they are fizzing away. The other is Fermaid O, not to be confused with other formulations of Fermaid! This one has only organic sources of nitrogen, and has less of a chance of causing problems.

So far, I use my nose, thermometer, and a pH meter to see when I should add in nutrients. If I start to smell off-smells with slight rotten egg or whatnot, if the pH goes below 3.5, or if the temperature goes a little high, in goes 1/2 to 1 tsp of Fermaid O, or a packet of boiled bread yeast.

On your other questions, you should look for responses from members who have more experience, especially with DV-10.

Good luck with your batch!

 

[rmccask]

5 gallons with 15 lb of honey should get you a OG of 1.108. Lalvin DV10 can go up to 18% so it should be able to take it dry (1.000 and lower). Do you have a hydrometer and if so, do you know what your current SG is? If the SG is below 1.072, then I wouldn't add any more of the Fermaid-K or DAP. Usually after the 1/3 point I stop aerating it too. Without a hydrometer you are in the dark but it hasn't been too long so you can probably add it and give it one last aeration and hope for the best.

 

[otherchuck]

Greetings,

Yes, my OG was around 1.100 or a little higher. I am anticipating it going a little under 1.000. When I came home last night, I checked the gravity with the hydrometer, and it was just about 1.050. I went ahead and added the 1.8g of Fermaid-K and 1.8g of DAP. And I aerated it a medium amount as I stirred it in.

I see from your post that 1/3 fermentation (~1.070) should maybe have been my cut-off point, rather than 1/2. I am crossing my fingers that nothing bad is going to happen to this batch.

Chuck