Is my first attempt still viable ?

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Good to hear others return their samples to the fermenter. I just did it for the first time recently, and I thoroughly cleaned/sanitized the test tube so didn't think it would hurt.
 
If you're careful to sanitize everything that comes into contact with your mead, there's really no good reason why you can't return it to the batch. And when you're doing 1-gallon batches, those few ounces each time really do add up. Which is why I like being able to use the hydrometer right in the thief... saves a step or two on sanitizing and cleanup. Score one for inherent laziness! ;D
 
Hi,
One week on status:
No events in the bucket - no bubbling observed within the past 48 hours nor any co2 smelly gas either.

Temp has been pretty consistent - bucket not moved from kitchen work top

I've not taken hydro reading, as the bucket isn't deep enough for the hydro eter - pre yeast reading was taken in a tall pot that I simmered the water and honey in.
But I have ordered a wine thief/pipette unsure the eBay description was a bit foggy, but I'll see what the postman brings :)

I'm guessing as all bubbling has stopped that it is ok to move into a demijohn now

Cheers

Andy
 
Search Alla Brand, Glass Wine Thief, 12'' X 3/4''

mmclean,
Does the hydrometer fit inside this one? I have a wine thief but it is so long it's a pain with my 1 gallon batches.

Originally Posted by Chevette Girl View Post
<sigh> I do so hate using the turkey baster.

My turkey baster is a PITA also, it's dripping stuff all over the place. Next time I go by the feed store or medical supply place, going to pick up a few 60 ml cath tip syringes. I've used one before and works good. Can't remember if it fit in the 1 gallon jug or not, but you can cut a piece of racking tubing and stick on the cath tip.

Stacey
 
Hi,
-----%<-----
pre yeast reading was taken in a tall pot that I simmered the water and honey in.
-----%<-----
You simmered your water and honey :eek: ?

Hang your head in shame ;) and then go and read all the info you can find on not heating honey ;D

I take my samples with a turkey baster (sanitised) and put 100mls into the plastic hydrometer testing jar I use (about £1.50 to £2.00). The jar is sanitised in the same way i.e. I keep a garden spray, containing 1 pint water, 5 crushed campden tablets and 1 teaspoon of citric acid in it. You wash and rinse kit in the usual way and then spray it with the sanitiser (it's in CJJJJJJJJJJJJJJ's book) and leave it for 2 or 3 minutes before shaking off or tipping out any excess. Works a treat and I've not had any infections with it........yet !

It's a bit like how I aerate my musts as well. I sanitise either the liquidiser or the food processor, then just blitz the honey/water must that way. Quicker, less hassle and seems to work fine. Once the yeast is pitched I just use a sanitise plastic stirring paddle or if the batch is in a DJ, then I use the handle end......
 
Hi,

Sadie Ladie - Ill find out soon, no post today yet though :(

Fatbloke - yep, I found gotmead after I had simmered, I immediately bought a fresh salmon and hit myself several times with it after reading the simmering comments :)

Just grabbed some more demijohns, been cleaning them, one has a sugar I think deposit that the VIP hasn't shifter in an overnight soak bah.

Still, I thought I would set off a joes ancient mead batch - but my bungs and airlocks haven't arrived yet, so I either leave my mead batch one in the bucket a while longer, or defer the ancient mead attempt

trying to find a local shop I can buy a bung and airlock from (uk) but no success -plan b is I have some ordered online, but that will take a few days now

Cheers

Andy
 
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here's what google gives me for home brew shops oxfordshire

If the link works on your PC, it should give location pins for Oxford, Witney, Highworth and near Bicester. Plus some in the Reading/Basingstoke area as well as Milton Keynes.

Failing that, just google for "home brew shops oxfordshire" on your PC and it should give the same....

Dunno if that's any help or not Andy.......
 
Hi,

Thanks for the links :)

Just checked my bucket, today it has about a half centimetre white sediment distributed at the bottom of the bucket - all about half a cm all the way round.
Would that be dead yeast maybe ?

Bung and bubbler arrive tomorrow hopefully, so should be able to move it from the bucket to a demijohn with bubbler, I was going to do that yesterday but need a spare bung and bubbler because >>

Also started a JAO yesterday, currently in a demijohn and smells like a cross between orange and rotten eggs :p very differ than this first batch with the white sediment, getting addictive this mead brewing :)

Cheers

Andy
 
Hi,
Thanks for that - spotted one near work :)

Mead looks poorly, bubble every 2 mins, loads of white gunk left when I racked it (siphoned) into a demijohn.

Am I ok to top up with water ? I am about 4 inches below the demijohn neck - didn't want to rack in all thewhitesediment

Aside from that, I guess I just leave it for 6 months or so now :)

The JOA batch is bubbling away crazily to itself though, kids are loving it (the sound, not the drink ofc :))

Cheers

Andy
 
Check the gravity Andy. A racking cane/tube is best for the actual event, its like a small scale snore upside down, which will leave most of the sediment behind. Plus the increased air space is one of the snags of a DI for the primary ferment. If you top with water, it'll dilute the strength a bit, plus it can reduce the body/mouthfeel. Hence it sounds like your glassware collection needs to get bigger ;)

Wilkos home brew selection is lamentabley poor..... a proper HBS is miles better.

When I get money I'll try to re-read for anything else......I'm on the phone ATM......
 
Hi,
Okay -
Hydrometer says 0.98 - did it 3 times.
Initial reading pre-yeast was 1.121

Online Calc suggests alc of 18.5%, crikey, rocket fuel !

Had a sly taste before returning sample jar to the demijohn, tastes like cider

Not noticed any bubbles at all in the past few hours.

Fleabay has provided a further 6 demijohns now, running out of vwp at this rate :)

Reckon I should have left it in the bucket ?

Empty bucket now sterilised too, so I have 6 more demijohns and a bucket ready for more honey yeast action :)


Also, spotted a HBS near work today as well as the wilkinsons - result :) only a ten min walk.
 
Congratulations on a successful fermentation!

And it sounds like yo're falling headlong into the addiction, welcome to the club... ;D
 
Congratulations on a successful fermentation!

And it sounds like yo're falling headlong into the addiction, welcome to the club... ;D
__________________
"I think the important thing is that you've already brewed good batches of mead. All of the extras that the Forum Hive Mind provides you with will just help you to make good mead even better mead." - fivecats, 2012

Wow. I've never been quoted as a signature line before. I am quite honored, CG!

(And why is there no :blush: emoticon?)

:icon_cat:
 
Andy, its quite usual to leave it and get 3 identical readings across a period of a week to confirm that ferment is complete.

Your next stage depends on what you want to do i.e. if I'm aiming for a semi sweet mead (how I like them), and you want to use honey (again, that's my usual method), I find it best to stabilise it now, then back sweeten with a 50/50/mix of honey and water, up to about a gravity of 1.010 only then do I think about clearing and ageing it. Mainly because honey sweetening can cause a haze and I find it better to just have to clear it once.

Also, if your figures are correct, it will probably require at least a year of ageing, and back sweetening helps to mask some of the harsh flavours of a young mead.

So its you call Matey.........
 
Hi,
Thanks :)

I've taken more readings throughout the week and they are all the same.

So, next I need to stabilise, so I need to add 1 crushed Campden tablet and some potassium sorbate right ?

I have two potassium sorbates - a ritchies E202 and a youngs stabilising compound -ingredients e202 potassium sorbate. The youngs says add 1/2 a teaspoon per gallon and the youngs says 1 teaspoon per gallon.

Do I really need to crush the Campden ? Or can I just plop it in e demijohn ?

Daft question coming -
I will obviously remove the bung and airlock to put the potassium and Campden in, will that then allow bugs in to wreck the mead ? Or does the mixture of potassium sorbate and Campden create anti bug gas ? (yep, 2 year old description, but hey:))

How long after the Campden and potassium should I look to back sweeten and I take it to do that I add a bit of honey and water, take a sample and measure in the hydrometer until I get the gravity back up, so it will take a few wine thief seasons rights?

No problem leaving it a year.

Once it is back sweetened I am in ageing storage mode -is it best to store it with an airlock fitted with a Campden solution in it or to just solid bung it (read worry about demijohn bombs)

Still so many questions, but thanks for all the help everyone, much appreciated

Andy
 
Do I really need to crush the Campden ? Or can I just plop it in e demijohn ?

I've done it both ways but it dissolve much more quickly if it has been crush. I usually crush it and than put it and the sorbate in an empty sanitized carboy and rack onto it.


Daft question coming -
I will obviously remove the bung and airlock to put the potassium and Campden in, will that then allow bugs in to wreck the mead ? Or does the mixture of potassium sorbate and Campden create anti bug gas ? (yep, 2 year old description, but hey:))

You'll be fine it won't be exposed for that long.


How long after the Campden and potassium should I look to back sweeten and I take it to do that I add a bit of honey and water, take a sample and measure in the hydrometer until I get the gravity back up, so it will take a few wine thief seasons rights?

I usually wait like a week before I back sweeten. Not sure if I need to wait that long, but since I usually do everything on the weekends it works for my schedule. I know people that back sweeten the same day and it seems to work for them, I'm sure even if their is still viable yeast it can't work for to long before everything becomes stabilized.

I usually pull out a glass of mead and slowly add honey to it until I get a taste I want and than take a hydrometer reading of that mixture. That will give you an idea of how much honey you'll need to add to your batch. 1 b of honey will raise your gravity in a gallon about 34 points.


Once it is back sweetened I am in ageing storage mode -is it best to store it with an airlock fitted with a Campden solution in it or to just solid bung it (read worry about demijohn bombs)

I just asked this question as I always have done it with the airlock, but since the carboy is put away and I don't have to fuss with it I forget to check the airlock sometimes. Seems the general consensus is most people will airlock, but a few bung it. Fermentation should be halted even though you added additional sugar, but there are environmental concerns that will change the pressure in the carboy (temp, atmospheric pressure). So it is up to the individual (I'm going to risk it as it will allow me to install another shelf on my rack).
 
Pretty much concur with TAKeyser's post.

Airlock will allow any gas build up that may get released as the temp and ambient external weather pressure vary. I generally add half or a quarter of a campden tablet into my airlock, dunno why........ belt and braces I suppose. You just need to make sure that you have a look every couple of weeks/month, so the airlock doesn't evaporate dry.

Some people actually use vodka in them instead, but that's gonna evaporate even quicker than sulphite solution.

If it hasn't cleared yet, then you can just add the sulphite (campden tablet) and sorbate straight to the DJ as is, but it might be better if you racked it off the gross lees, as some sediments aren't good too leave the mead on (71B comes to mind with that). Also you need to have something to top up with, as you will always get some racking losses, creating an airspace. Some people will make a batch of mead just for topping up, others try adding sanitised marbles (not a fan of that method with glass DJ's), some use water, some use vodka, etc etc etc.....
 
Hi,

Thanks again for all your help peeps (and your patience having no doubt answered theses questions before :) )

Campden doing its thing, - a side note, nw that I am in aging mode for this batch, is temperature really an issue anymore ? 2 weeks old mead, but now aging can't I just drop it in the garage ? Outside temp is nw around 16-18 degrees c here

Cheers

Andy
 
When aging, keeping a near constant temp is far more important than hitting a specific target. Although 15C is probably considered ideal for aging, if you can keep a constant 20, that is better than allowing the mead to swing thru 5 to 7 degrees difference, even if that diff is down around 10C.