First batch - aeration? nutrient?

[MJ7]

Yes you're right, D47, not K47, my bad.

Thanks for the answer!
As I would prefer keep it relatively pure, how should I rack it? I don't have enough room in my fridge, and I presume outside temperature is not cold enough to stop the fermentation process. Is there a solution or I can't skip sulfites?

Also, can I transfer my batch in a secondary fermentation tank for the racking, even if it's a 5L tank for a 4L batch? I think it should be avoided

What is your overall stopping SG goal?

If you want it to stop at say 1.010, begin these next steps at 1.015.

1. Cold Crash, if you can't cold crash (for D47 50 F and below would suffice) read next steps.

2. Super Kleer. Pick up some super kleer at your local wine/beer store and add it to clear the must. Once clear (usually within 24-48 hours), rack it.

3. Add potassium sulfite + potassium sorbate OR just add potassium sorbate. Potassium sorbate will inhibit the yeast from reproducing, potassium sorbate is recommended to work best in environments with potassium sulfite, HOWEVER, it is not required. If you want to use less chemicals or additives just use sorbate.

4. After following step 3, wait 48 hours, then filter (optional), then bottle and enjoy.

5. If your must has a strong alcohol flavor or a dull flavor, bulk age it stop at step 2. Clear the must, rack into a secondary and age it for however long you see fit. After you are content with aging, revert to step 3 and 4.

For bulk aging you want little to no air space, this will reduce oxygen exposure and not give the head room needed for re-fermentation.

Good luck.

 

[Chevette Girl]

If you're going to be drinking this relatively quickly and don't want to hit it with the chemicals, hit it with a clarifying or fining agent as suggested (bentonit is a good start and it's completely natural), then cold crash it as best you can (I'm not sure what the temperature is in England right now, but if it's close to refrigerator temperatures, ie, between 0 and 4C, you could put it outside until it's thoroughly chilled), rack it off the lees before it warms up, don't seal your bottles with corks (use screw-tops or flip-tops so you can let off any pressure that builds up) and keep them in the fridge, checking them every week or so for any signs of carbonation and letting it off if there is.

But when you've got the time and the chemicals, it's a lot safer to let the ferment finish naturally, hit it with stabilizing chemicals, backsweeten if if you need to, then hit it with a fining agent, and before you bottle it, make sure your hydrometer readings aren't changing over time since you added more honey to backsweeten.

PS, Bonjour a vous de Canada! And your English is fine, there are several active members on this forum whose native tongue isn't English, and those whose first language IS will try to figure out your meaning without negative comments because we know you speak our language better than we speak yours!

 

[GntlKnigt1]

The following is from an Oskaar post 06-17-2007, 10:19 PM .....


Zero change in gravity for a period of two weeks is far too short a period to assume that the http://www.gotmead.com/forum/vbglossar.php?do=showentry&item=meadmead has stabilized. I've had meads that have sat for 3-5 months with no change, then BLAMMO, off they go again. This is even after 2 rackings. The problem with not filtering or sulfiting and sorbating is that you're at the mercy of time and guesswork. You cannot see the yeast with the naked eye, and while http://www.gotmead.com/forum/vbglossar.php?do=showentry&item=meadmead can appear clear, it can still have a significant enough population of yeast in suspension to begin fermenting again. You need to monitor the http://www.gotmead.com/forum/vbglossar.php?do=showentry&item=meadmead for several months (more than three in my opinion) in order to make that leap. Even then you're rolling the dice. If you want to stack the odds in your favor you should cold crash the http://www.gotmead.com/forum/vbglossar.php?do=showentry&item=carboycarboy at about 39 degrees for two weeks and immediately rack after that time. Take a gravity reading after the http://www.gotmead.com/forum/vbglossar.php?do=showentry&item=meadmead has come up to room temperature and monitor again for eight weeks. At that point if you see no changes in gravity I would still cold crash again for a week and monitor for another four afterwards. Then I'd feel safe bottling. That's no guarantee by the way, but it seems to work for me on a pretty regular basis.

 

[fatbloke]

-----snip----- OR just add potassium sorbate. Potassium sorbate will inhibit the yeast from reproducing, potassium sorbate is recommended to work best in environments with potassium sulfite, HOWEVER, it is not required. If you want to use less chemicals or additives just use sorbate.
-----snip-----

I've noticed that you've mentioned this more than once. Why ? I don't understand...
Link...... and quote from that link.....

Malolactic Fermentation' (ML) describes a fermentation by malolactic bacterial culture (leuconostoc oenos) that are able to convert malic acid from grapes into lactic acid. It occurs alongside, and in addition to regular fermentation, and can be desirable for two reasons: Reducing excess acidity. By converting the relatively harsh tasting malic acid into the softer lactic, ML softens the flavor of the wine. Adding complexity. In addition to converting the acid, malolactic bacteria can add a component of 'buttery' flavor (diacetyl), along with more complex flavors and aromas. Uncontrolled ML is very undesirable. The same bacteria responsible for reducing acidity are responsible for the production of sauerkraut, whose flavors and aromas are not what you would expect in a fine wine. In addition, if malolactic bacteria work in the presence of potassium sorbate (a preservative in kit wines and some commercial wines) it will produce geraniol, a compound that smells like a cross between ripe salmon and rotting geraniums

Now I can't see whether the linked article explains about why it's recommended to use sulphite and sorbate, but MLF bacteria won't tolerate sulphites above 20ppm, whereas the addition of 1 crushed campden tablet provides 50ppm per gallon (which I believe is for a US gallon, those of us who work in imp gallons, the same amount of sulphite will provide 44 ppm per gallon).

Either way, if the character of MLF is required in a batch, then you'd likely introduce the bacteria in adequate quantity deliberately, so you certainly wouldn't have used sorbate as you'd ruin the batch as above.

Equally, stopping an active ferment isn't as easy as it sounds. Sulphites and sorbate aren't a magic bullet. You'd most likely, need to cold crash the batch a little higher than you're aiming for as the yeast will still ferment some as the temperature drops. Then, as alluded to in Oskaars quote below, it needs to be kept there for a while.

It's then recommended to rack off the hibernating yeast and add the stabilising chems before it warms back up to ambient temp, which I understand gives the chems time to mix in, and have the desired effect before any remaining yeast can wake up and start doing their thing again. And there will, still be, some viable yeast cells (again, Oskaars quote below).

Ergo, it's considered poor technique and isn't something normally recommended.......

There's likely some good, "sciencey" published info out there that explains it more fully - or at least from a considered and reputable source.

I just use it as my guide as it's never failed so far, and I've not had any batches ruined by just using sorbate without sulphites.

Of course, there are times when sulphites can't be used, like if someone who might drink the mead (or wine etc), has an intolerance of them. If that were the case, any back sweetening would likely have to be conducted using a non-fermentable source of sweetening.......

Don't take my word for it though, there's plenty of guidance out there from reputable sources, who mirror my sentiments........

The following is from an Oskaar post 06-17-2007, 10:19 PM .....


Zero change in gravity for a period of two weeks is far too short a period to assume that the mead has stabilized. I've had meads that have sat for 3-5 months with no change, then BLAMMO, off they go again. This is even after 2 rackings. The problem with not filtering or sulfiting and sorbating is that you're at the mercy of time and guesswork. You cannot see the yeast with the naked eye, and while mead can appear clear, it can still have a significant enough population of yeast in suspension to begin fermenting again. You need to monitor the mead for several months (more than three in my opinion) in order to make that leap. Even then you're rolling the dice. If you want to stack the odds in your favor you should cold crash the carboy at about 39 degrees for two weeks and immediately rack after that time. Take a gravity reading after the mead has come up to room temperature and monitor again for eight weeks. At that point if you see no changes in gravity I would still cold crash again for a week and monitor for another four afterwards. Then I'd feel safe bottling. That's no guarantee by the way, but it seems to work for me on a pretty regular basis.

Another excellent quote from Oskaar. Certainly explained better than I can do. But as it says, no guarantee's but it seems to work.......

 

[MJ7]

I've noticed that you've mentioned this more than once. Why ? I don't understand...
Link...... and quote from that link.....

Now I can't see whether the linked article explains about why it's recommended to use sulphite and sorbate, but MLF bacteria won't tolerate sulphites above 20ppm, whereas the addition of 1 crushed campden tablet provides 50ppm per gallon (which I believe is for a US gallon, those of us who work in imp gallons, the same amount of sulphite will provide 44 ppm per gallon).

Either way, if the character of MLF is required in a batch, then you'd likely introduce the bacteria in adequate quantity deliberately, so you certainly wouldn't have used sorbate as you'd ruin the batch as above.

Equally, stopping an active ferment isn't as easy as it sounds. Sulphites and sorbate aren't a magic bullet. You'd most likely, need to cold crash the batch a little higher than you're aiming for as the yeast will still ferment some as the temperature drops. Then, as alluded to in Oskaars quote below, it needs to be kept there for a while.

It's then recommended to rack off the hibernating yeast and add the stabilising chems before it warms back up to ambient temp, which I understand gives the chems time to mix in, and have the desired effect before any remaining yeast can wake up and start doing their thing again. And there will, still be, some viable yeast cells (again, Oskaars quote below).

Ergo, it's considered poor technique and isn't something normally recommended.......

There's likely some good, "sciencey" published info out there that explains it more fully - or at least from a considered and reputable source.

I just use it as my guide as it's never failed so far, and I've not had any batches ruined by just using sorbate without sulphites.

Of course, there are times when sulphites can't be used, like if someone who might drink the mead (or wine etc), has an intolerance of them. If that were the case, any back sweetening would likely have to be conducted using a non-fermentable source of sweetening.......

Don't take my word for it though, there's plenty of guidance out there from reputable sources, who mirror my sentiments........

Another excellent quote from Oskaar. Certainly explained better than I can do. But as it says, no guarantee's but it seems to work.......

MLB in the presence of sorbate can produce issues, however, I do not understand why MLB would be a problem with mead, the bacteria require specific environments, typically not suitable for most mead. as pH tends to increase with ML inoculation.

Honey does have some malic acid http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814697001660, so it is a possible concern, albeit rare, unless you specifically inoculate the must with the bacteria. Thus, it would be counterintuitive to inoculate your must and then add sorbate, SO IF YOU ARE INOCULATING YOUR MUST WITH maliclacto bacteria DO NOT add sorbate.

The reason I have said you do not need sulphites is potassium sorbate does not specifically need sulphites to inhibit yeast reproduction. It works better in the presence of sulphites, and it works better than sulphites alone.

Of course, there are arguments that sorbates and sulphites can produce off flavors.

As for stopping a fermentation cycle early, I 100% agree.

I prefer cold crashing as is described by the Oskaar quote, I try to avoid additives and chemicals if I can help it, but when time is of the essence sorbate, Super Kleer (as long as the consumers aren't allergic to shell fish), and sulphites are recommended.

 

[Alban]

Thanks for all you wise advices!

SG today is 1032 at day 11, so I think it will be ready to cold crash around the day 14 (thursday), at 1015 (to obtain a semi-sweet around 1010. Hopefully). It was way quicker than I thought!

So, my next steps (tell me if something is useless/to avoid) as of it's around 1015:
- Cold crash as I can in my garden for 48h. Not the best solution, but the tempatures are around 8°C the day, and probably around 2°C at night, so I hope it will be enough.
- Transfer in a secondary jug without all the deposit and clear (didn't find SuperKleer, I took Kwick Clear) for 48h
- Adding some potassium sorbate, wait 48h
- Bottling; wait as long as I can before tasting (probaby one week).

I tasted it today, and was not really convinced. The honey flavour is very light; I almost don't feel the alcohol and it's quite acid. Is it normal? Because of the quick fermentation, does it need to age to develop more flavour / complexity?

 

[MJ7]

Thanks for all you wise advices!

SG today is 1032 at day 11, so I think it will be ready to cold crash around the day 14 (thursday), at 1015 (to obtain a semi-sweet around 1010. Hopefully). It was way quicker than I thought!

So, my next steps (tell me if something is useless/to avoid) as of it's around 1015:
- Cold crash as I can in my garden for 48h. Not the best solution, but the tempatures are around 8°C the day, and probably around 2°C at night, so I hope it will be enough.
- Transfer in a secondary jug without all the deposit and clear (didn't find SuperKleer, I took Kwick Clear) for 48h
- Adding some potassium sorbate, wait 48h
- Bottling; wait as long as I can before tasting (probaby one week).

I tasted it today, and was not really convinced. The honey flavour is very light; I almost don't feel the alcohol and it's quite acid. Is it normal? Because of the quick fermentation, does it need to age to develop more flavour / complexity?

The taste is normal, and I see nothing wrong with your approach, you may need to cold crash it longer, however, usually a week is typical.

Once you rack off more and more yeast the flavor will come alive, adding more complexity and flavor. Aging can help this.

 

[mannye]

Keep in mind that most meads aren't really ready to drink for at least 6 months to a year with others going much longer! The quick meads are only supposed to be something to get you going and have very specific recipes that have to followed to the letter. I am not familiar with the recipe you used, but unless it is specifically designed to be quick, don't get discouraged. Your mead is very very new!