Too much honey

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aetius

NewBee
Registered Member
Mar 4, 2018
19
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Currently in Germany
1 gal mead 5lbs of honey still slow bubbling after 31 days. Started 1 March 2018

Recipe; 5 lbs various honey, Lavin D47 5g, 1tsp yeast food, 1 tsp yeast energizer. Honey, water mixed very well, added food/energizer and yeast. Starting gravity 1.160. Checked gravity 1 week ago and had only dropped to 1.140 after steady bubbling and lots of CO2. Tasted it and it tasted good, but very sweet. Some yeast now at bottom still a slow bubbling going on. Should I rack to new carboy? And do I have a stalled fermentation? Kind of new at this, so any and all help is very much appreciated!
 
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Unfortunately you haven't done many things right, so this wil probably be a struggle and it may take a while (many months) before you get something drinkable.

Yeah, a starting gravity of 1.160 is very high. That has a potential ABV of 20%. D47 is good for around 14%, which means you probably should have started with an gravity of 1.100.

Are you doing any kind of temperature control? D47 is very temperature sensitive and with that kind of a starting gravity you should have probably have pitched 2x to 3x the amount of years that you pitched.

Why would you rack to a new carboy when the fermention is far from being over?

I assume you assembled this in a carboy? Buy a bucket, it's much easier to work on. Have you been doing daily stirring/degassing/aerating? If not, you need to do so, to help get the CO2 out and keep the yeast in suspension.

You really need to read the NewBee guide (link at top of page). Watch 9 episode Meadology series on YouTube: pay particular attention to episodes 6, 7 and 8. Also, when you have the time, listen to the gotmead podcasts, starting on September 5th, 2017, and lean about modern mead making techniques.
 
Ditto to everything Darigoni said.
The only thing I would add is:
1)No mention at all of hydrometer during ferment. Go by hydrometer readings not bubbles
2) use fermaid o or fermaid K not the crap you used
3) use a calculator to get the right amount of honey: gotmead has one or use meadmakr
4) post on here next time you want to start a batch rather than ask after the fact
 
Ok, thank you both for the advice. I did do a temperature control of the current batch, it has remained around 65 to 68F. I used a hydrometer to check it at the beginning and it showed 1.160 and a week or so ago it showed 1.140. I will do another reading soon. And yes, I have degassed often, now not so much as the CO2 has not been as much. So should I do anything to it now? Or just keep an eye on it and degass as needed? I do plan on making another batch soon and will be using 3lbs of honey this time. Last time all the honey was in grams and kg and I did not convert until after mixing. Lessen learned. I am off to watch the mead series suggested! Thank you
 
So should I do anything to it now?
Not much can be done. Measure often with hydrometer. Stir at least 2x/day. As I know nothing of your nutrients used. I can’t say if you need more but if you can get fermaid O it probably won’t hurt to add another 1/4 tsp. It is probably too late for it but won’t hurt either. Or just keep an eye on it and degass as needed? I do plan on making another batch soon and will be using 3lbs of honey this time.
Use raw and unfiltered honey if possible. Local farmers market or beekeeper is a good place for that
 
Ok, thank you both for the advice. I did do a temperature control of the current batch, it has remained around 65 to 68F. I used a hydrometer to check it at the beginning and it showed 1.160 and a week or so ago it showed 1.140. I will do another reading soon. And yes, I have degassed often, now not so much as the CO2 has not been as much. So should I do anything to it now? Or just keep an eye on it and degass as needed? I do plan on making another batch soon and will be using 3lbs of honey this time. Last time all the honey was in grams and kg and I did not convert until after mixing. Lessen learned. I am off to watch the mead series suggested! Thank you

Your first batch will most likely turn out very sweet. Unless it stalls, I would just let it do its thing. If the yeast stop where it's rated at, 14%, you should end up with a final gravity of 1.046. Which is fine, if that what's you want.

Are you planning on using D47 for the second batch? If so, I might use just enough honey to get to 1.090 (around 2.5 lbs), which will give you an ABV = 12% and "should" ferment all of the honey (FG <= 1.00). You could then blend the two batches, leaving you with a mead that's around 13% alcohol and with a FG = 1.023. Of course that's all in theory and will only work out if the first batch doesn't stall and the second batch works out as planned.
 
Yes I was going for a sweet mead (sack mead?) Just not that sweet! And I was planning of using the D47 for the next batch, but I also have 71B and EC1118 (I think the last one is EC1118) 2.5lbs should be easier to ferment than the current batch. It just bubbles along rather slowly now (around 5-6 bubbles a minute) If my current batch only produces an ABV of 10-12% that is ok. When I get ready for the next batch I will post what I am using before I mix it. If this current batch stalls, what can I do to restart it? Also should I add some yeast nutrient to it? Thank you again for your advice and help.
 
Will do with the measurement. And I do stir/swirl slowly twice a day, but the bubbles are not that much like in the first two weeks. The nutrients I used came with a kit I purchased for making mead (newbee kit) The nutrient is Diammonium Phosphate and the energizer is DAP, Yeast Hulls, Magnesium Sulphate, vitamin B all in powder form. Do these sound about right? I used a tsp of both when I started the must. I have received a lot of great advice so far, and am checking the videos for making mead (better than the various Y-tube ones I have seen so far) Thank you for the advice, and help!
 
When you put 1 tsp of your energizer and nutrient, I assume that it was what was recommended on the packages, so no I would not add more of either. If it does stall out around 1.046, I would blend it with your new batch. If it stalls at 1.140, then I might pitch the EC-1118. Just make sure you follow the directions for rehydration and make sure it's at the approx temperature of the must (you may want to add some of the must, to the yeast, to acclimate it before pitching).

FYI. From you original post, I was thinking this was a 5 gallon batch. My mistake. 5 grams should have been more than enough for a one gallon batch.
 
Yes I was going for a sweet mead (sack mead?) Just not that sweet!

Sack does NOT equal sweet. Sack equals >14.5% ABV which you cannot usually get with D47.

Never use DAP directly. There is more than enough in Fermaid K if you strongly believe in the stuff. I have yet to see valid argument of Fermaid-k plus DAP versus Fermaid K by itself. (Other than somewhat cheaper.)
Personally I don’t use either of the above and only use Fermaid-O.
 
When you put 1 tsp of your energizer and nutrient, I assume that it was what was recommended on the packages, so no I would not add more of either. If it does stall out around 1.046, I would blend it with your new batch. If it stalls at 1.140, then I might pitch the EC-1118. Just make sure you follow the directions for rehydration and make sure it's at the approx temperature of the must (you may want to add some of the must, to the yeast, to acclimate it before pitching).

FYI. From you original post, I was thinking this was a 5 gallon batch. My mistake. 5 grams should have been more than enough for a one gallon batch.

I will watch it closely and continue to take measurements. If it stalls I will add the EC-1118 (good advice on how to mix it) if not then I will have a pretty sweet mead. My next batch will not be this sweet, so maybe I could mix them both in the future to make the perfect blend. Needless to say this is quite fun to do and at least my current batch did not go bad or anything worse! Thank you again for your advice.
 
Sack does NOT equal sweet. Sack equals >14.5% ABV which you cannot usually get with D47.

Never use DAP directly. There is more than enough in Fermaid K if you strongly believe in the stuff. I have yet to see valid argument of Fermaid-k plus DAP versus Fermaid K by itself. (Other than somewhat cheaper.)
Personally I don’t use either of the above and only use Fermaid-O.

Ok, I just used what came with the kit. The yeast energizer seemed to have a lot more of an effect when added than the nutrient however. I just now heard of Fermaid-k and Fermaid-O. Heck until last week I had not even heard of stabilizer agents to add after the mead is done! The Y-tube and internet videos I watched made it all look so easy, sterilize container, add water, honey, yeast and just wait. Oh well live and learn. I am just glad I found this web site with so much real knowledge and experience to pull from. I see I have a lot to learn yet, but it is fun and look forward to making the next batch. Thank you
 
The Y-tube and internet videos I watched made it all look so easy, sterilize container, add water, honey, yeast and just wait.

Essentially, yes, that is all there is to it. But a mead made like that will take longer to mellow out and taste great. With better ingredients and better techniques you can make a better mead and do it faster.

There is a TON to learn, and most of the people making those videos don’t know as much as they appear to. Or some of them do, but they are using older techniques. Not to say that I know what I’m talking about, I’m still new. The good news is that there are very few things you can do that are “wrong”. Mostly it’s about figuring out what you want and how to make it.

Cheers!
 
What you might consider is adding more water to reduce the concentration of honey: water and the potential final ABV. That will mean that you may want to look for a fermenter that can hold another pint or two of water (or more).
 
Sack does NOT equal sweet. Sack equals >14.5% ABV which you cannot usually get with D47.

Never use DAP directly. There is more than enough in Fermaid K if you strongly believe in the stuff. I have yet to see valid argument of Fermaid-k plus DAP versus Fermaid K by itself. (Other than somewhat cheaper.)
Personally I don’t use either of the above and only use Fermaid-O.

I have never once not seen that strain hit 14%. In my hands, it can go 2 or maybe 3 higher.
 
I have never once not seen that strain hit 14%. In my hands, it can go 2 or maybe 3 higher.


I made a Cyser with D47 that came out at almost 18%. This was not intentional, as I think there was some variation in the gravity of the cider I use from the previous batch.
 
Essentially, yes, that is all there is to it. But a mead made like that will take longer to mellow out and taste great. With better ingredients and better techniques you can make a better mead and do it faster.

There is a TON to learn, and most of the people making those videos don’t know as much as they appear to. Or some of them do, but they are using older techniques. Not to say that I know what I’m talking about, I’m still new. The good news is that there are very few things you can do that are “wrong”. Mostly it’s about figuring out what you want and how to make it.

Cheers!

Well that is good news for my current batch. I do not mind it taking a wee bit longer to process and I am learning more and more as I go. At least this batch did not spoil or get any beasties in it so I did that part right!
 
What you might consider is adding more water to reduce the concentration of honey: water and the potential final ABV. That will mean that you may want to look for a fermenter that can hold another pint or two of water (or more).

Yes it would help if I had larger containers. I only have 5 glass 1 gal carboys. I did see a 3 gal hard plastic water bottle for sale at my local thrift shop, but am not sure how that would effect the mead. I am currently overseas in Germany and larger glass bottles here cost a small fortune for some odd known reason.
 
I made a Cyser with D47 that came out at almost 18%. This was not intentional, as I think there was some variation in the gravity of the cider I use from the previous batch.

Wow, that is pretty high. I am not going for that much alcohol (not that I can control the out come of this batch) I just want a nice sweet mead with around 11-13% . If it turns out higher that is ok too. I guess the D47 yeast is not bad for making mead.