First batch

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Chilkat

NewBee
Registered Member
May 9, 2018
51
0
0
Klukwan, Alaska
I've started my first batch of mead last night.

4lbs Honey
Champagne Yeast
1 gal water

I mixed the honey and water in a stainless pot. Heated to 168 degrees. Cooled and added softened yeast to a 1 gal fermenter.

Air lock started working away.

It was 1.130 after cooled.
 
Nutrients?

Do you know about aeration and degassing?

Your recipe states that you used a gallon of water. Did you use the full gallon of water or is your total volume 1 gallon?

Unless you use nutrients and are degassing, you are going to end up with rocket fuel, that will need to age for several months to be drinkable, unless the novelty of drinking a dry beverage, with 17.5% alcohol and lots of flaws is what you were striving for.

Read the gotmead NewBee guide and watch the 9 episode YouTube series "Meadology", especially episodes 6 and 7.
 
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Haha! Rocket fuel and flaws were exactly what I was striving for.

I'll watch that now. Thanks.

I don't know anything about aeration and degassing. This is my first blind run with mead.

1 gallon was total end volume.
 
Haha! Rocket fuel and flaws were exactly what I was striving for.

I'll watch that now. Thanks.

I don't know anything about aeration and degassing. This is my first blind run with mead.

1 gallon was total end volume.

If that's what you were looking for you did a great job.
 
Tips?

If that's what you were looking for you did a great job.

It's not what I'm looking for - I was being sarcastic. So what do I need to do to save this batch?

Or in the next one - what I need to get and familiarize myself with?

This is my first batch of mead and I did it blindly. I'm not looking for a flawed wine. I'd really like to make some good mead.
 
You should just let this mead finish fermenting, then rack it off the gross lees and then put it in your basement and forget it for a year.

For future meads, you should slow down and spend sometime doing some research. Read the NewBee Guide, watch the Meadology series and then, once you have a grasp of the terminology and techniques, listen to the Gotmead podcast series on Moderen Mead Making, starting on Sept. 5th 2017. Also, the guy who made the Meadology series (the Canadian Sasquatch) has made several other mead videos that I recommend; one one making a BOMM and another on making a Blood Orange Melomel. They are both great for seeing someone actually doing the techniques that are talked about.

Then, before you go out and buy any ingredients, share your proposed recipe and plan with the forum and let some of the more experienced members critique it for you.

First podcast: http://gotmead.com/blog/gotmead-live/9-5-17-ryan-carlson-modern-mead-making-yeast/

BOMM: https://youtu.be/U1gJmPsaSFE

Melomel: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEUA9sOZJbcmK0_LDA889xggzyh-Bp2bo
 
Read the NewBee Guide

I honestly learned more from listening to the podcasts and from making recipes than I did from reading the NewBee guide. I believe it is a bit more outdated than I'd have liked, and I do believe that first-time or starter mead-makers will do better with a JOAM or BOMM as a base to start off from. As these meads are relatively "fool proof", it's a good intro to the hobby and provides A LOT of information to take in at the start of the process, while giving you something to drink after a month or two.
 
I honestly learned more from listening to the podcasts and from making recipes than I did from reading the NewBee guide. I believe it is a bit more outdated than I'd have liked, and I do believe that first-time or starter mead-makers will do better with a JOAM or BOMM as a base to start off from. As these meads are relatively "fool proof", it's a good intro to the hobby and provides A LOT of information to take in at the start of the process, while giving you something to drink after a month or two.

Agreed, but if you're starting out you need to learn some basics of terminology and techniques. Also, some people learn by reading, some people learn by watching and others learn by listening. I love the podcasts, but how many people want to (or will) sit through 6-8 hours of them, hopefully taking notes, while trying to learn how to make mead for the very first time?

Hopefully, a new mead maker will read the NewBee Guide, watch some videos AND once he has some understanding of the basics, will take the time to listen to the podcasts.
 
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Actually, just about everything I know has been learnt through reading these forums. We have just about every topic with links to the studies which prove our point. Unlike podcasts or videos there usually is some healthy discussion which can help you form your judgement and can also build a fuller picture of what we're doing and why.
I think if we all just listen to videos or podcasts there won't be much room for us to better our protocol but if hundreds of eyes go over studies and discussions someone might come up with more insight
 
Agreed, but if you're starting out you need to learn some basics of terminology and techniques. Also, some people learn by reading, some people learn by watching and others learn by listening. I love the podcasts, but how many people want to (or will) sit through 6-8 hours of them, hopefully taking notes, while trying to learn how to make mead for the very first time?

Hopefully, a new mead maker will read the NewBee Guide, watch some videos AND once he has some understanding of the basics, will take the time to listen to the podcasts.

I learn best from reading. I've started the Meadology videos by Steve and I'm beginning to understand the diverse world of mead. I've ordered diammonium phosphate and fermaid k. Is that a good start? I'm not sure what works the best yet so if anyone has referrals I'd appreciate suggestions.

I am also wondering what kind of mead I've had before - just looking at what he is drinking, I must have had the five gallon bucket rocket fuel that I'm making. His drink looks amazing compared to the stuff I've had from my buddies. What I've had looks like bilge swill compared to what he has in that snifter.

I'm excited for that.
 
Diammonium Phosphate 99% 1 Lb Bag
Fermaid K (80 g)
Potassium Carbonate 1lb

I just ordered these from Amazon. Are these the right additions to my ingredients stock? Are there any others that you might refer me to?

I'm aiming for the BOMM since I'm not going to have any of this for a year. I think that by the time I get any of this first batch, I'll be able to have a pretty well tuned palate and recipe.
 
Hmm.... I seem to recall saying to run it by the forum before buying any ingredients! :-)

I'm guessing you watched the BOMM video? :-)

FYI. It's still a good recipe, but Bray Denard has updated it. He no longer uses the DAP, but uses Fermaid O instead, with some Fermaid K added upfront. You should check out his website.

https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/

You've started making mead at a time when info and techniques are changing so fast that it's hard to keep up at times. A couple of years ago they were throwing honey, yeast and water together, letting it do its thing and then waiting for a couple of years for it to become drinkable. Then they started up using DAP, with ally he nutrients added up front, then Fermaid K came along, and then SNA (Staggered Nutrient Additions), The BOMM and now Fermaid O (using the TOSNA protocol). Don't feel overwhelmed by it all, just do what you are doing, but know that you're on a steep learning curve.

While there are some excellent mead makers who still use DAP, the trend seems to be going organic (Fermaid O). Even Fermaid K has some DAP in it. DAP is said to be like candy or crack for yeast. It will turbo charge the yeast (not necessarily a good thing), but like kids eating candy, it's not good as a steady diet.

If you've already ordered it, go ahead and use it for your first couple of batches, but you'll probably want to eventually follow the trend and phase the DAP out. I have a big bag of it myself and may spread it around on my grass this year :-)

Are you going to use the Wyeast 1388?

My first couple of batches were BOMM's. A great way to learn mead making, learn techniques and get some tasty mead in a short amount of time. You should check out Bray's other recipes. Especially his Cyser.

Unless you like dry (not sweet) mead (think white wine), you may also want to buy some potassium sorbate and potassium Metabisulfite. You'll use these to "stabilize" the mead; after fermentation, clearing and racking. Once stabilized, you can then add some honey to "backsweeten".
 
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I edited this for the answers. I modified my order.

Hmm.... I seem to recall saying to run it by the forum before buying any ingredients! :-) I do believe that you did, I'm just excited to start this. I've brewed wine and beer before, it's fun and really tasty.

I'm guessing you watched the BOMM video? :-) I did and that's where I got the ingredients that I ordered and modified since I read your post. I live in Alaska so it takes extra long to get things shipped here that's why I order first, post, modify as needed. Cancelled Fermaid K and DAP. Ordered Fermaid O, Potassium Carbonate.

FYI. It's still a good recipe, but Bray Denard has updated it. He no longer uses the DAP, but uses Fermaid O Noted and modifiedinstead, with some Fermaid K added upfront. You should check out his website. Will do

https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/

You've started making mead at a time when info and techniques are changing so fast that it's hard to keep up at times. A couple of years ago they were throwing honey, yeast and water together, letting it do its thing and then waiting for a couple of years for it to become drinkable. Then they started up using DAP, with ally he nutrients added up front, then Fermaid K came along, and then SNA (Staggered Nutrient Additions), The BOMM and now Fermaid O (using the TOSNA protocol). Don't feel overwhelmed by it all, just do what you are doing, but know that you're on a steep learning curve. This is the best time to learn then.

While there are some excellent mead makers who still use DAP, the trend seems to be going organic (Fermaid O). Even Fermaid K has some DAP in it. DAP is said to be like candy or crack for yeast. It will turbo charge the yeast (not necessarily a good thing), but like kids eating candy, it's not good as a steady diet.

If you've already ordered it, go ahead and use it for your first couple of batches, but you'll probably want to eventually follow the trend and phase the DAP out. I have a big bag of it myself and may spread it around on my grass this year :-)

Are you going to use the Wyeast 1388? I've actually already purchased Champagne Yeast and another that I have no idea what it is right now.

My first couple of batches were BOMM's. A great way to learn mead making, learn techniques and get some tasty mead in a short amount of time. You should check out Bray's other recipes. Especially his Cyser.

Unless you like dry (not sweet) mead (think white wine), you may also want to buy some potassium sorbate and potassium Metabisulfite. I have Campden Tablets. That's the same thing right? Ordered potassium sorbate, Fermaid O. You'll use these to "stabilize" the mead; after fermentation, clearing and racking. Once stabilized, you can then add some honey to "backsweeten".
 
I edited this for the answers. I modified my order.

One thing I would like to add. If you follow what I promote in the Podcast. ( This is precisely how I make my meads). You will find your mead is ready to drink even before it's clear. No more waiting around for it to age. I have won gold medals at the Mazer Cup with stuff only a few months old. Yes. It gets better with age. But we no longer have to let things sit forever to have time fix our errors. Nowadays we avoid these errors from the very start. I don't believe one needs to add Fermaid K to any mead other than liquid yeast. Goferm and Fermaid O is a complete nutrition program for dry yeast these days. People talk about them both only being dead yeast. What they don't know is some of it is yeast that they developed just as a food source, and it's not even yeast made to ferment with.
 
Hi Chilkat!

Well, if you don't use 1388, it's not a BOMM :-) If you're going to use Fermaid O and a Champagne yeast, you'll want to learn about SNA and TOSNA.

You'll also want to order some Goferm, which is a nutrient used when hydrating yeast.

And, you should probably order some PH test strips: https://tinyurl.com/y8yf7rjm

The TOSNA protocol is located here: http://www.meadmaderight.com/tosna.html

That same website also has the protocol for hydrating yeast:

http://www.meadmaderight.com/yeast-rehydration.html

There's another website that has an online tool that will do all the calculations for you:

https://www.meadmakr.com/tosna-2-0/

You'll want to play with the tool and see what happens when you change parameters.

Feel free to post your recipe and protocol, and let us critique it. You can also PM me if you have any questions.

dave
 
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Are you going to use the Wyeast 1388?

I went home and looked at the other packet of yeast that I have and it's lalvin k1-v1116. So I didn't luck out and grab the right one this time. The other one is champagne yeast.
 
I guess it's not too late to add nutrients, if he started it yesterday? this is somewhat similar (gravity-wise) to my 1st and 4th batch (I think the 1st one was higher), and I've seen the yeast I have described as having an alcohol tolerance of 16% and 18% (same brand and product name), so it probably fits the bill for a champagne yeast

on the 1st one I didn't have nutrients (but added the juice of a lemon and a few sticks of cinnamon, I was following the apocalyptic knights' recipe[1] loosely), on the 4th one I used pollen for nutrients; both of those should be easier to get from your local supermarket than amazon stuff :)

I guess the results will depend on the yeast, but my first batch took a really long time to finish fermenting (started it in early September, ambient temperature about 28-30 deg. C, finished at the end of October), presumably due to the lack of nutrients, but it was decent when I racked and cleared it (finished rather sweet, though) and awesome when I drank the last bottle in late December / early January. Batch 4 took about a month to finish fermenting and was drinkable even before it finished, and awesome a month later.

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMeSGNBOUP8 - he gets some things wrong, but still, a decent starting point
 
I guess it's not too late to add nutrients, if he started it yesterday? this is somewhat similar (gravity-wise) to my 1st and 4th batch (I think the 1st one was higher), and I've seen the yeast I have described as having an alcohol tolerance of 16% and 18% (same brand and product name), so it probably fits the bill for a champagne yeast I started it on the 8th. I didn't have a 2 gallon bucket for the aeration but I did an initial one for the degassing. It was a little more explosive than I anticipated. It smells amazing. Do you think I could transfer it to a larger carboy without issue or should I just leave it there in the one gallon growler?

on the 1st one I didn't have nutrients (but added the juice of a lemon and a few sticks of cinnamon, I was following the apocalyptic knights' recipe[1] loosely), on the 4th one I used pollen for nutrients; both of those should be easier to get from your local supermarket than amazon stuff :) So can I add lemon juice to this still? The stick and juice would be taking the place of the nutrients I am waiting for from Amazon? I was so excited to get it started that I didn't really look into what steps to take but now that I've begun researching I'm already planning my next batch.

I guess the results will depend on the yeast, but my first batch took a really long time to finish fermenting (started it in early September, ambient temperature about 28-30 deg. C, finished at the end of October), presumably due to the lack of nutrients, but it was decent when I racked and cleared it (finished rather sweet, though) and awesome when I drank the last bottle in late December / early January. Batch 4 took about a month to finish fermenting and was drinkable even before it finished, and awesome a month later.

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMeSGNBOUP8 - he gets some things wrong, but still, a decent starting point

It takes so long and much to get things here that even if I had the ingredients for the next batch, I'd have to wait another 1.5-2 weeks for the additional carboy to arrive. I only have a 6 gallon bucket to primary ferment. Then 1, 3, 5 gallon carboys.