Advice needed on blackberry mead

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chriss

NewBee
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Nov 2, 2015
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Hi guys and gals new to the forum and mead here and need some advise, I have most of the things I need or ordered them online. I picked around 4-5kg of blackberries and Id like to make some mead with them. I want to make a 5 gallon batch and so just got myself a 5 gallon glass demijohn for secondary fermentation, Ill order another to rack it into soon too. I have a 5 gallon plastic fermentation container with air lock that has plenty of head room, Pectolase, Capden tablets, Citric acid, and yeast nutrient, I've ordered 6kg of local wildflower honey from a bee keeper, The yeast I have chosen is Lalvin 71b-1122. So I'm aiming for around the 14%vol mark with the yeast I have selected. I'm not sure though that I have the right yeast nutrient for the type of yeast strain and ingredients as I've been reading that you are supposed to use Fermaid-K and DAP with honey, And that your supposed to introduce them a bit at a time. Can someone point me in the right direction for the ingredients I want to use. I need a step by step guide as this is my first batch and I cant find a solid one I feel comfortable with. If I don't have enough honey I can order a little more and if I don't have enough blackberries I'm assuming I can add some juice used for wine. Any advise anyone can give will help
 
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I found this with a Google search: http://www.leeners.com/mead/recipes/blackberrymead.shtml

@loveofrose gave this advice to someone that asked the same question, "Make a JAOM with 12 oz blackberries. No orange, no clove, cinnamon optional. Recipe courtesy of Chevette Girl over at gotmead.com. She knows her blackberry mead." JOAM is Joe's Ancient Orange Mead, Google it for the recipe.

Here's another fellow making a blackberry melomel: http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php/25132-Blackberry-Melomel
 
Don't add any of the acid. It will probably push you over the acidity level and cause your yeast to stall, or at least get grumpy and start stinking.

look here

603

This is my approach (and although there are similarities to other nutrient methodologies, we do differ somewhat). It agrees for the most part with the recommendations of Lallemand and other commercial yeast manufacturers.

First, I make an assumption that the honey that I use in any of my musts provides negligible amounts of YAN.

Next, I determine what (if any) fruit I will use in primary fermentation.

Then, I try to find out (for melomels) how much YAN is present in the fruit I plan to use (measured in ppm, for the given volume of fruit I'll add in primary). If I can't find info on YAN for my particular fruit, I assume a baseline value of 100 ppm. That's close enough for gov't (and mead) work.

Then I work out the dilution of that fruit-supplied YAN in my total volume of must. If for example I am mixing up a 5 gallon batch of must, and one gallon is pure fruit at 100 ppm, then I will dilute by a ratio of 1/5, so the net YAN in my fully mixed must is 100 * 1/5, or 20 ppm.

I next find the nitrogen requirements of my yeast. For most commercial yeast strains we only know if the demand is low, medium or high. For low demand yeasts, I ensure that the total YAN is 225 ppm. For medium demand yeasts, I ensure that the total YAN is 300 ppm. For high demand yeasts, I ensure that the total YAN is 350 ppm. These are numbers that I've found through trial and (mostly) error that will produce clean ferments with minimal H2S production in my meads.

Note: Those values are what I use for "normal strength" meads, which for me are musts that range in initial gravity from 1.080 to 1.100 (Initial Brix range of 20 to 24). For initial Brix of 24 to 27 (SG from 1.101 to 1.115) I multiply my normal strength numbers by 1.1. For Brix from 27 to 32 (SG from 1.116 to 1.140) I multiply the normal strength numbers by 1.25. For initial gravities in excess of that, I wing it.

I calculate how much Fermaid-K and DAP to use knowing that Fermaid-K has 13% YAN by weight and DAP is 21% YAN by weight. Another way to express the YAN content of those is that 1 gram of Fermaid-K provides 130 ppm of YAN to a single liter of must, and 1 gram of DAP provides 210 ppm of YAN to a liter of must.
7 out of 4 people have a hard time using their hydrometer!
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08-30-2015, 08:35 PM #10 Squatchy
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How to Calculate Nutrient Additions Using Fermaid-O
The amount of required nutrient additions are based on your starting gravity. For an easier calculation convert to Brix and figure out your target mg of Nitrogen per liter using the following as a starting point:

21°Bx = 200 mg N/L
23°Bx = 250 mg N/L
25°Bx = 300 mg N/L
27°Bx = 350 mg N/L

1g/gal of Fermaid-O = 50ppm N/L (effectiveness)
(1g = roughly .25 tsp)

Example:
In a 5 gallon batch of 1.115 SG (27°Bx)
Target = 350 mg N/L
Equates to 7g/gal (350 mg / 5 gals)
35g of total Fermaid-O to be used in this 5 gallon batch
 
Thank you for the advice, I cant access the link you posted it says I don't have permission
 
Opps

You need to be a patron to get into the best parts of the forums. You can have access to all of the stuff foe $25. The recipes alone are worth more than that!