Brewing maple syrup

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Of course I had to sit here and figure it out...

I think if I shoot for the same OG and FG with 7 lbs of honey and 2 pints of Maple Syrup I think I will end up with a final product that is on the sweet side...am I right?
 
Don, watch it with show meads, "show mead" means you don't add any nutrients or energizer or anything other than water, honey and yeast and they can take a really long time to finish. And you may consider saving a cup or so of the maple syryp to backsweeten with in case it goes dry, the maple flavour gets lost in dry wines. I've done the step-feeding thing too, it works out well.

For one gallon, I use 1 kg honey, 540 ml syrup, nutrients and energizer, and my acerglyns start at 1.125 and finish around 1.020, but depending on your yeast selection, honey and syrup, you may get very different results.
 
Ok thanks. This is going to be a learning experience for sure I just don't wanna waste my honey on something that's gonna taste bad!

I'm gonna make my 1st 6 gallon batch of mead tomorrow. The more I think about it I may just make the Mead with just Honey. The "Show" Mead is the recipes in Ken Schram''s Book and I can't remember if there were any Nutrients or energizers and the book is in my truck so I can't look.

I was trying to use the 2 pints of my Maple Syrup to cut down on the amount of Honey because my Bees only made me 41 lbs of Honey so far this year.

So if you had 2 pints of Syrup and Honey and were trying to use the least amount of Honey to make a sweet mead and it was your 1st Batch what Recipe would you use?
 
Search the forums for Acerglin, which is the term for a honey/maple mead. It's not uncommon, and you'll probably find something. I'm on an iPad so I can't search the forums while I'm writing this. If you're a patron also, you may find more info in the patron section but again, I don't know because I've not looked, but I will once I've hit the send button on this post
 
Ok, after a quick forum wide search, the first thing to note is hat there's some confusion as to whether its Acerglin or Acerglyn. So try both.

I see a few people trying this, most notably, ChevetteGirl seems to have walked this path a few times and there are few on here as experienced as her in walking off the beaten path so speak

I also note that at least 50% of the OG must come from honey, otherwise it's a maple wine, not a maple-mead or acergl(y/i)n.

I know this isn't the answers you're looking for, but I'm hoping it gets you a step closer to you goal.

The reason I'm particularly interested is that, Acerglin is on my todo list, and a metheglin too.

Tony
 
Thanks! I ran into the mead calculator by JamesP last night and it's pretty cool.

Since I have 2 Pints I decided I am only gonna use one and save one incase I need to back sweeten.

I'm assuming my Og for a sweet Acerglyn should be around 1.100.

14 lbs of Honey and 1 pint of Maple Syrup will give me a Target Gravity of 1.111 SG...(Which is OG I believe)

So that is 14.49% ABV but what should my FG be to make sure I have a Sweet Acreglyn?

I'm kinda looking at it like the Honey is the Main and the Syrup is just adding as a sweetner because most Acerglyn have a lot more Syrup...

It just seems that with that calculator 14 lbs of Honey plus 1 pint of Syrup seems like a lot of Honey Still...
 
Yes,

OG and FG are both SG's... OG is the SG reading before you pitch yeast. FG is the SG reading once you've stopped fermentation or the yeast have.

With regards to how to make it sweet, the generally accepted ranges are as follows, target your FG for the appropriate range that you want it to finish in.

Dry: 0.990 – 1.006
Medium: 1.006 – 1.015
Sweet: 1.012 – 1.020
Dessert: 1.020+

So with an OG of 1.100, and an approximate FG of 1.016 (putting right in the middle of sweet), you need a yeast that will drop you about 84 points (11.24% ABV)... which isn't a huge feat.

So pick a yeast that suits the temperature of the brewing environment, that is good for at least 12% ABV. Just remember, yeast do what they want, not what you think they should!!

If you want higher ABV, either start out with a higher OG, and a yeast to suit, or ferment dry and backsweeten. Alternatively you can step feed too... all of these methods are used by different folks on here, and all are a separate subject in and of themselves.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Tony.
 
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Thanks! I ran into the mead calculator by JamesP last night and it's pretty cool.

Since I have 2 Pints I decided I am only gonna use one and save one incase I need to back sweeten.

I'm assuming my Og for a sweet Acerglyn should be around 1.100.

14 lbs of Honey and 1 pint of Maple Syrup will give me a Target Gravity of 1.111 SG...(Which is OG I believe)

So that is 14.49% ABV but what should my FG be to make sure I have a Sweet Acreglyn?

I'm kinda looking at it like the Honey is the Main and the Syrup is just adding as a sweetner because most Acerglyn have a lot more Syrup...

It just seems that with that calculator 14 lbs of Honey plus 1 pint of Syrup seems like a lot of Honey Still...

I think you already know this, but just in case someone new reads and doesn't 'get' the initials we tend to throw around....

  • SG = Specific Gravity - the density of whatever you are checking
  • OG = Original Gravity - The Specific Gravity BEFORE fermentation
  • FG = Final Gravity - The SG of the finished product, after fermentation has completed

You should have seen my confusion trying to figure out what DAP and KMeta were. Boy did EYE feel stupid. <G>


Good luck,

Joe
 
Ok one more question before I am going to start my batch... do the yeast packets tell you how many points they drop?

or is there a chart somewhere? I think I may have read about that in Ken Schram's book too so if it's in there I'll know in a lil bit once I get it from my truck...
 
Strains of yeast have different alcohol tolerances, rather than a number of points that they drop the specific gravity. The Yeast Table linked on the Site Menu lists typical ABV tolerances for most yeasts used for mead, although these are based on wine and can be influenced by a variety of factors. Generally, it is often easier to get the desired sweetness by using a starting gravity that will ferment dry at your desired ABV, then stabilizing the mead and back sweetening to taste.
 
Ok one more question before I am going to start my batch... do the yeast packets tell you how many points they drop?

or is there a chart somewhere? I think I may have read about that in Ken Schram's book too so if it's in there I'll know in a lil bit once I get it from my truck...

I've come to see that even the best charts are guidelines at best. What is important is that you not push the yeast beyond its comfort zone so as to avoid off flavors, etc.

Most yeasts are 'good' to 14-16% ABV. Choose a yeast based more upon the flavors it leaves or doesn't, instead of how much alcohol it can tolerate.

Champagne yeasts, for example, will usually produce up to 18% alcohol, but deplete the mead of flavors. Montrachet yeast can leave off flavors under some conditions (or so I have been told), and some strains cannot be left on the lees (the sediment/dead yeast on the bottom) because they will break it down and leave nasty flavors.

There are people here much much more knowledgeable than I who can help much more, but there is a listing of common yeasts available in the yellow block to the left on this page.

The best practice, in my opinion is to choose a yeast that gives you a good mix of abilities (letting your fruit or spices come through, acceptable fermentation time, temperature tolerance, and lastly alcohol tolerance) and 'construct' your must accordingly.

For instance, if you want medium-sweet mead with an ABV of around 12%, you might decide to start with around 2.5 lbs of honey, let the yeast ferment it dry, stabilize it and then add honey to it a couple of days later, checking sweetness as you add.

I recently made a batch of traditional mead that I wanted to end up with 12% alcohol using yeast that was good to 14% alcohol, but I added enough honey for about 16% alcohol. So when it got to 12%, I "cold crashed" it, which is putting it in the freezer for a couple of hours to bring the temp down fast, then put it in the fridge for a week. What this did was to stop the yeast without killing them, and they all settled to the bottom for me. Then I siphoned (racked) the clear, 12% mead off into another jug with a campden tablet and potassium sorbate, and then used the dormant yeast in another batch right away. The mead came out right at 12%, right where I wanted it, and with just a touch of sweetness. After aging, it will be exactly what I had wanted. A first for me! <lol>

This is the way fatbloke recommended I do it, and I'll tell you, I'll have a very hard time doing it any other way now.

I guess that's a long winded way of saying "alcohol content ain't everything, and if I can do it, anybody can!"


Good luck,

Joe
 
Ok I have like 6 Packs of Red Star Montrachet Yeast (yeast, emulsifier:sorbitan monostearate (E491)

I also have 2 Bottles of Tannin, Acid Blend, Fermax Yeast Nutrient, Campden Tablets and pectic enzyme Solution.

Is that yeast ok for this? I am gonna go get Ken's book out of my truck and start reading hopefully it's in there and I can compare answers here to what I read...

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Ok the yeast I have says to 13% and with 13 lbs of honey the alcohol is 13.66 % on the Mead Calculator....

Am I ok or should I drop it to 12 lbs of honey to get just below 13% (12.82%)

If I drop to 12 lbs my OG will be only 12.097 and it might not be the sweetness I want unless I backsweeten...

Or should I run to the local Brew Shop and get different yeast?

Edit: Called the local brew shop he has Lavin Ec-118 which is good for up 18%... do I need to run and grab some of that or am I good with the Montrachet 13%?
 
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Ok the yeast I have says to 13% and with 13 lbs of honey the alcohol is 13.66 % on the Mead Calculator....

Am I ok or should I drop it to 12 lbs of honey to get just below 13% (12.82%)

If I drop to 12 lbs my OG will be only 12.097 and it might not be the sweetness I want unless I backsweeten...

Or should I run to the local Brew Shop and get different yeast?

Important note: please refer to point one of my top 10

The yeast are in control, not you. They are unpredictable little monsters overall; trying to get an exact finish point, based on an OG and a performance expectation of yeast, is a bit like trying to nail jello to a wall.

Far better to use the method Joe outlined or step feeding method, outlined by FatBlokes here: http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21487 (in post #5)

Which is my preferred method. Otherwise you may miss the mark on getting the results you want.

Tony
 
Well I can't Stabilize with Sufate because I am allergic to Sulfides...

Blah!

So what I am thinking is this yeast I have is good up to 13% so it will stop fermenting before all the sugar is used up so then if I want to back sweeten I should be good to go... I hope! But there still will be sugar left too so I am thinking I am good...?

I think I am gonna go for it with 13 lbs of honey and a pint of Maple Syrup and the 13% yeast and see what happens....

(5 gallon Batch BTW)
 
Well, EC-1118 is a champagne yeast. It will indeed tolerate around 18% alcohol. The problem is that it, in addition to the sugar, eats up the flavors and aromas, leaving a fairly tasteless brew behind (ever had flat brute champagne?).

I would recommend just about anything BUT a champagne yeast (this includes Priemier Curvee, Pasteur Champagne and EC-1118) unless you want to stabilize and backsweeten with whatever you want for flavor.

Something like 71B would be good, as would Cote Des Blancs (but it ferments more slowly). I am still thinking that making the must to ferment at, say, 13 or 14 percent, let it ferment dry and let the lees settle out and clear some, then cold crash it hard, letting as much yeast as possible settle down to the bottom, then racking it carefully and letting it sit so you can see if there's any activity. You're kind of screwed if you can't use sulfites to stop the yeast. I'm trying to remember exactly what the sorbate does... I'm sure someone will chime in wtih that info.

But anyway, after a suitable amount of time (usually about 3x as long as you want to wait <grin>), you may be able to backsweeten it with syrup or syrup and honey, but you'll have to watch it for a long time and check hydrometer readings to make sure its not active.

And even then, its not a sure thing. I had one batch that I racked three times to get rid of sediment, let sit in a gallon jug for three months, then bottled, and it was three months AFTER ALL OF THAT that the little single celled bastards decided to go active again. Luckily, I noticed it before I had glass grenades going off in the cellar.

I know this is kind of convoluted, but I'm kind of working it out for myself too. Before too long, someone who REALLY knows what they're talking about will come along and say "forget what he said, just do <this>, <this> and <this> and you'll be okay". <grin>

Maze on,

Joe
 
Well I can't Stabilize with Sufate because I am allergic to Sulfides...

My wife is too, that's why I'm using FatBlokes method of continual feeding until the yeast just quit. I don't plan to use any additives to stop fermentation, I plan to just keep fermenting lower than where I want to be; then topping back up to where I want FG to be. So I ferment down to 1.000 for example then top up with honey to 1.010 etc, repeat ad nauseum, until they quit.

I'm not focused on the ABV because yeast are unreliable, I'm focused on the finish (on the dry side of medium). I know my yeast (WLP720) have a label that says 15% ABV, but they've gone past that now, 'cause they couldn't read the package. But soon enough they'll run out of steam, and the FG should be exactly where I want it. Then I'll rack it off and bulk age it. Simple!
 
Well I did it! Just got done and it's sitting in the basement waiting for fermatation to start!

The OG was almost right at 1.110.

Time will tell...