Well, the most recent commercial mead I've tasted was the Moniack mentioned by CG. UKTony had it sent to me to try and test.
Apparently they used to market it as heather honey mead etc, but it seems to have had a make over recently.....
The Moniack of a few years ago was amazing. The best traditional mead I've ever tasted -- and if you smelled heather flowers, you could tell exactly where they got their honey from. The Moniack tasted like heather honey.
The Moniack I picked up a year ago does not blow me away any more. They've changed something, and lost what made it so spectacular.