First batch-very sweet is it stuck?

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Well I got the ph up to 3.45, there has been absolutely no sign of any fermentation to re-start. So the question remains? was it ph or lack of nutrient?

Also can nutrient be added at will or will it cause off flavours?

Also in my re-pitch im going to use yeast engergizer, is it ok to use both nutrient(dap) and energizer?? Does any unused nutrient/energizer settle out later on or leave off flavours?
 
You probably want to nudge that pH up a bit more, 3.6 is closer to yeast's happy place.

You don't want to be adding nutrient/DAP after 1/3 of the sugar is gone, although I'm not entirely sure about restarts, hopefully someone has a better idea than me... I'd probably add some energizer instead, but add it to the must after you make your acclimated starter, don't feed it into your starter...
 
Well, I see mixed reviews about ph, the newbee guiede says 3.7, the other guy said 3.4 for this is fine now you're saying 3.6 haha. Anyhow I"m sure 3.45 is fine, plus i'm using calcium carbonate and it can change the flavor so I think I'll keep it here.

Thank you very much for the info about the nutrient as I would have done it haha.
Regarding the energizer though I did read from another website that its good to put into the starter when re-pitching to a stuck fermentation so thats what I've done already.
 
...It seems you could almost stabilize a mead by adding enough acid to prevent further fermentation and then backsweeten if needed. Has anyone ever tried this?....


It certainly seems possible, but you'd probably wind up having to sweeten it an awful lot. I'd live to see it tested.




Also can nutrient be added at will or will it cause off flavours?

Also in my re-pitch im going to use yeast engergizer, is it ok to use both nutrient(dap) and energizer?? Does any unused nutrient/energizer settle out later on or leave off flavours?

Unused nutrients may hang around and create metallic, salty, and yeasty flavors, but you usually have to go really overboard to have it happen. There is also the theoretical risk that excess nutrients may feed spoilage organisms.

When building your starter, it is OK to use energizer. Just don't use things that have DAP in them during rehydration. It is also good to treat a stuck batch with yeast hulls before repitching.

It is important to acclimate your starter. How do plan to do do?

Sent from my THINGAMAJIG with WHATCHAMACALLIT
 
It is important to acclimate your starter. How do plan to do do?

Sent from my THINGAMAJIG with WHATCHAMACALLIT


What I've already done is I pulled off maybe 1-2 liters of must.
I added 1 tsp of energizer to it.
I let the yeast warm up out of the fridge for over a half an hour.
Then I just lightly sprinkled the yest across the top of the surface.

I"m thinking i Should of even diluted the must a bit to lower the alcohol for the yeast? And maybe even added some sugar or honey to it? Or is 1.04 enough?

Within an hour there was already some light foam up top. And this morning this is an even nicer layer of foam, I should post a pic hehe.
 
It sounds like this will work for you. Typically if you have a harsh must with alcohol and other yeast inhibitors, it is usually a good idea to make a small starter, and then gradually add additions of you must to the starter. Most commonly people keep doubling the size, and then waiting a few hours for it to start bubbling. By the time you get it up to 2 liters, your yeast will be ready for whatever they face in the must that is stuck.

sent from my THINGAMABOB with WHATCHAMACALLIT
 
My mead is fermenting like crazy hehe. I'm glad I got it going again. Thanks for everyone's help.

Now the next question, is the ph level going to taste nice for a dry mead at 13% alhcohol since it was 2.45 and then brought up to 3.45?

I also read this, can any of the veterans here confirm this?

"Calcium carbonate reacts preferentially with tartaric rather than malic acid, so one should not try to reduce acidity more thab 0.3 to 0.4% through its use. A dose of 2.5 grams per gallon of wine lowers TA about 0.1%. After its use, the wine should be bulk aged at least 6 months to allow calcium malate, a byproduct of calcium carbonate use, to precipitate from the wine. The wine should then be cold stabilized to ensure tartrate crystals do not precipitate out after bottling."

I was hoping to have this batch for xmas, doesn't look like its going to happen :(
 
Acid-base chemistry is one of the more complex aspects of wine/mead making, and you're jumping in on your first batch ;D

Acid blend is composed of malic, citric, and tartaric acids in various ratios depending on the manufacturer.

Acids dissociate when dissolved in water to yield positively charged hydrogen ions aka protons (which cause the pH to drop) and a negatively charged "conjugate base." If they dissociate completely (like sulfuric acid) they are said to be strong, and if they dissociate incompletely (like the three acids above, as well as nearly all organic acids) they are said to be weak.

Weak acids have a property called pKa, which is defined as the pH at which the acid is half in the dissociated form. The lower the pKa, the stronger the acid.

The pKa values most relevant to mead making are
Citric acid: 3.08
Tartaric acid: 3.2
Malic acid: 3.4
Gluconic acid: 3.6

Gluconic acid is the primary acid in honey, produced by the action of a bee-secreted enzyme on glucose. Malic acid is dominant in apples, pears, and quince, both malic and tartaric acid are prominent in grapes, and citric acid is prominent in citrus, though most fruits have some level of all three.

Now to get around to your quote: total acidity is the sum concentration of all acids in the mead. Adding calcium carbonate neutralizes acid as follows: The carbonate grabs a hydrogen ion in a reaction that ultimately produces water and CO2. The calcium ion remains in solution along with the conjugate base of the acid. Because lower pH = more hydrogen ions, taking them away will raise the pH.

Let's say your pH is 2.6 and you start adding calcium carbonate. Once it rises to around 3.08, the pKa of citric acid, you start pulling protons off of citric acid, yielding calcium and citrate ions. At 3.2 you neutralize tartaric acid, at 3.4 you neutralize malic acid, and at 3.6 you neutralize gluconic acid. Once the pH is up around 4 you have neutralized pretty much everything, resulting in a bland, "flabby" acid profile.

Tartaric and citric acids are a bit special, because the neutralization products, calcium citrate and calcium tartrate, are insoluble particularly at cold temperatures and will precipitate out. Calcium malate is partially soluble and can precipitate over long periods but generally stays in solution. This is important because calcium ions, like sodium ions, trigger our "salty" taste buds and thus impart a detectable flavor above a critical concentration.

Solubilities:
Calcium citrate 0.9 g/L (0.09%)
Calcium tartrate 0.4 g/L (0.04%)
Calcium malate ~9g/L (0.9%)
Calcium gluconate 33 g/L (3.3%)

The reason they recommend not to reduce acidity more than 0.3 to 0.4% is because that is typically the amount of tartaric acid present in wine. Once you add more than that you start neutralizing malic acid, resulting in free calcium ions and potentially a salty taste.

If you don't add fruit or acid blend, the primary acid present will be gluconic. Since calcium gluconate is highly soluble, it is possible to create a salty/chalky flavor by overdosing with calcium carbonate. However, given that the total amount of gluconic acid in honey is around 0.5% and this is diluted to around 0.12% when making mead, the amount of calcium carbonate required to keep the yeast happy is generally below the taste threshold.

In short, you'll probably be fine. Don't be surprised if you see some tartrate crystals (which are harmless). Depending on the amount of malic acid you neutralized you may have a slight salty taste, but most likely barely enough to notice.



"Calcium carbonate reacts preferentially with tartaric rather than malic acid, so one should not try to reduce acidity more thab 0.3 to 0.4% through its use. A dose of 2.5 grams per gallon of wine lowers TA about 0.1%. After its use, the wine should be bulk aged at least 6 months to allow calcium malate, a byproduct of calcium carbonate use, to precipitate from the wine. The wine should then be cold stabilized to ensure tartrate crystals do not precipitate out after bottling."

:(
 
Anir, thank you very much for the information.

Just a update on the mead batch and another question or two.

I got the fermentation going again and fermented until .99sg. Yes very dry, I racked it, tasted it and it tastes very much like alchohol and water lol. No honey flavour profile at all.

I now have a question about campden tablets.
Tablets were added at the beginning of the batch,
Second adding of tablets was on the second racking.
Fermentation at this point was completely stuck.

Got the fermentation going again after it was fully fermented I racked it and decided to add campden tablets again.

Is it safe that I've added campden tablets again for now a 3rd time? I want to be sure the product is safe. I won't be adding anymore, if I wouldn't of added last time I would of done at next racking since I think i read in my book it seems like every two times to add tablets but then again my circumstance is a little different due to the stuck and restarted fermentation.