First infection

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When I stabilize as part of the process of racking (as you plan on doing), I'll first dissolve my metabisulphite dose in a little distilled water, and pour it into the carboy. Then I'll rack my mead over top of that. The act of racking will create enough turbulence to disperse the sulphite, and that way you don't get any additional air mixing.

When I also use sorbate (in sweet meads), I'll wait a little while (typically 4 to hours -- never more than 12), and then add the sorbate, also pre-dissolved in a little water. I'll then gently take my stir rod and slowly mix in the sorbate. I do this very gently so as to introduce the minimum possible unwanted O2.

Then I'll bottle; you can wait a little longer before bottling, but again I don't generally wait more than a few hours. You don't want the sulphite level to drop to the point where any MLF bacteria present could take root. They do a nasty number on sorbate, and produce a stinky substance called geraniol in the process. Sulphite will keep MLF bacteria at bay.

Clarifying before doing any stabilization is a good idea simply because in most meads, any haze left in the mead will to at least some extent contain yeast cells. Some of them may be active. The fewer active yeast that you transfer into the stabilization carboy, the more successful your stabilization will be.

If you're not going to filter, then yes, rack off of any fining agent and/or lees, and stabilize. I generally do this all in one step - rack off of lees into a carboy that contains my sulphite dose, etc. Generally, in any mead already in a secondary fermenter (by that I mean already racked off of the first, gross, lees), you can simply prepare the fining agent according to manufacturers directions and then just slowly stir it into the mead already in that carboy. Then wait a time sufficient for the fining agent to do its thing, and then rack onto the sulphite stabilizer.
 
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Great information - that kind of put it all together for me. So where does backsweetening come into play here I am assuming it would be after all stabilization right before bottling. If using honey is it not pretty difficult to mix it thoroughly with introducing 02? Any tips or tricks. Also, how many points does a pound of honey typically add to 5 gallons of mead?
So stabilizing is not something that needs to be done ASAP after primary fermentation huh? I mean I know that is assuming you do it since some people don't. But it is alright to age in the secondary for several months then stabilize/bottle? What are the pros/cons?
Thanks again for the information.
 
The longer you wait, and the clearer the mead, the less likely that active yeast cells will be able to overcome the stabilizing agents.

If you do use honey to backsweeten, it will add a bit of haze that needs to clear so I wouldn't do it just before bottling as it will create some fine sediment in the bottles. Also, after backsweetening, I like to wait several weeks just to be sure that things don't start up again.
 
I definitely understand what Medsen is saying here and agree with it in my very rookie experience level.
That said I am confused about the process when trying to backsweeten now. My understanding is that I need to stabilize before backsweetening but I should wait a while after backsweetening to clear/make sure stabilization actually worked. So do I then need to sulfite again before bottling since they would be ineffective at that point?
So the process would maybe be
1. Rack from primary to secondary for clarification
2. Rack to a third vessel to sulfite/stabilize and backsweeten
3. Rack to a bottling bucket, sulfite and bottle
Can someone critique this process?

Would this add too much sulfite or is the first dose effectively "blown off" so the level is only whatever the dose before bottling was?

Also, what is the best way to mix the honey in when backsweetening? Having never done it I am not sure but I imagine it to be difficult to mix honey in without introducting O2. Do you use a lees stirrer on a very low speed?

Thank you all!
 
Actually, that's a good approach that you have outlined.

If you have a sulphite test kit available, you can determine exactly how much more K-Meta to add at the time of bottling. But even if you don't, you can assume that most of the free SO2 has "escaped" from your must by the time you're ready for the bottling step, so another dose of sulphite equivalent to the one that you do just prior to backsweetening, would do the trick.

Even with multiple sulphite additions done in the blind (i.e. without testing levels), you are only adding on the order of 50 to 75 ppm each time so you'd have a long ways to go before you get to what is customarily considered the detectable threshold (around 325 to 375 ppm), and that assumes all the sulphite that you add stays in your mead. In fact, it does blow off with time.

For backsweetening I usually mix a little water with my honey, which makes it very fluid and easy to mix into your must. I then hand-stir very slowly with a stir rod, and then close up the carboy with an airlock and wait for things to clear.
 
Good stuff on the backsweeting Wayne. That post pretty much answers all of my questions related to that.... for now.
I am thinkin about transferring tomorrow but am wondering if I should cold crash it first. I likely have a bunch of fruit waste floating around in there in additions to the yeast (a lot of which has probably floccuated by now). I have read some posts on here related to a bunch of loss in big fruit melomels and don't want that to happen. I am at just a hair over 6 gallons in the primary right now and it has been in there for two weeks. I would like to get close to 5.5 in the secondary. Would a week or so at 54 degrees help me accomplish this? I definitely don't need to be clogging my autosiphon either.
My biggest concern is time on the yeast 71B. I gotta imagine is a bunch of yeast to get through that thing. How long is generally too long on this particular strain?
 
Sorry for the delay - I've been away for a few days.

First, yeast autolysis is usually something that doesn't become noticeable for a couple of months - temperature of the must, pH, etc., influence autolysis rates, but to be safe with a stinker like 71B, I'd get it off the lees within a couple of months of the first racking (out of primary).

In my experience, cold crashing does help to settle out yeast (because as they go dormant, the yeast cells sink to the bottom of the carboy), but misc. "gunk" that happens to be floating in the mead doesn't usually settle any quicker at low temps.

And as long as you get through enough rackings that you don't see a substantial yeast layer at the bottom of your carboy a week or two after a given racking, then you'll be fine.
 
OMG, Glad I read this thread..I am in the process of a Mel now..and now I will have to guess on the final ABV...lol

I made a straight mead with Raspberry and Clover honey. I waited until the fermentation was almost done in the secondary. Then I racked that mead into a carboy ontop of 9 lbs of Raspberry, Blackberry and Blueberries. The Fermentation started up again, real strong. Which I did attribute to the added fluid.

I never even thought about the the SG swing because of it..well I'll just put this on the Bottle.

ABV Above %14

Mike
 
Update

Wanted to give everyone who was nice enought to get involved with this thread an update. I transferred it to a secondary a few days ago for clarification. Final gravity - 1.004. So, it left just a little bit of meat on the bone.
So, that means the 71B went to somewhere right around 17%!. Assume OG of 1.129 or there abouts.
Although my mead tasting experience is very limited I have to say that it tasted pretty decent for a very young mead - quite a bit of ethanol but not overwhelming.
I am pretty sure at this point that nothing funky got in there and that it was just 71B working real hard. Like I said, not much mead tasting experience but I am a BJCP beer judge so I would like to think I would pick up any blatent, common off flavors in mead as well but maybe not.

Anyway. Will let you all know how it turns out in 6 months or so. I think I am going to backsweeten it up to about 1.025 at some point (or to taste).

Thanks for the help!