first recipe, comment please

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I'm going to stick with sour cherries. Everything I've read says they're better for mead and beer, so I'll stick to it.

Not sure about the yeast yet, but I'll take everything you guys are saying into account.

Thanks for all the input. You guys are being a big help.
 
Hi Matt,

I figured they would be sour cherries. What you can do is get some of that nice cherry syrup concentrate the have in the small neighborhood stores (I don't recall the brand, but it's the one you dilute with water and generally have with bread and kajmak) and add that to bring some balance to the must. Once you get everything in and together, taste the must and make sure it's in balance before you pitch. Shoot for a starting gravity between 1.125 - 1.130 which will put you right at about 16.xx PABV and should finish with some small amount of RS.

If you use sulfite be sure to let it stand for 24 hours post sulfite addition. Measure to 30 ppm which is about what I use on my grapes when I make wine.

Since you have temperature control I'd recommend the QA23. If you have yeast hulls add about 2.50g to the must about 10 minutes before you pitch your yeast inoculum.

Cheers,

Oskaar
 
Thanks for the advice Oskar, but that's all losing site of what I want to do. I don't want to use syrup and don't want 16% abv mead. I'd rather have something closer to 13 or 14% (which means I'm leaning towards 71B or D47 now). And I'd like to just use honey and fresh cherries. Want to see the flavor from that. I can backsweeten if need be, no problem. I bought an extra kg or so of the honey in question.

I have Fermaid K, DAP and Go Ferm and will use those.

After what Ken said, I'm not going to sulfite or anything. And I'll be using the cherries in secondary.
 
You could still use QA23, just start with a gravity that will take you to your desired ABV if totally dry in the end, then stabilize with some sulphite and sorbate after it clears, backsweeten it to taste and away you go. Even if you're not backsweetening, it's a good idea to still stabilize any sweet mead before bottling for your own safety (very extended aging before bottling also works, but even then it's not 100% safe for sure).
 
Yeah, I'd rather backsweeten. But from what I read also, in Schramm's book, he says he loves 71B for melomels with cherries etc. So, thought it might be worth a go.

I don't want the mead too sweet either. I actually don't like sweet mead. He's got a very sweet cherry melomel recipe in the book which I steered clear of. I think it will need to have SOME sweetness with this particular melomel, but I wouldn't want the mead to end too sweet to begin with because then I just wouldn't like it.
 
Backsweetening is the way to go then, it allows for so much more control over the whole process. If Ken likes 71B and Oskaar likes QA23 I'd say you can probably bet you're totally safe using either!

Just add enough honey to get your must to a gravity that will equal 13% or 14%, whatever you want, if taken totally dry, then ferment it to dryness. Treat it like a dry mead, age it and let it clear as per normal.

Then, when your patience eventually runs out, pull a sample (measured amount) and start adding honey to it in mmeasured amounts until it's just the sweetness you want. You might want to take a gravity reading of that just for reference if your sample was big enough.

Then scale that up to your full batch, stabilize and backsweeten as per normal processes, watch it's gravity for a while to make sure the stabilization worked, and you're good to go.

The longer you let it age before backsweetening the better, as earlier on it will be harsher, and you'll overcompensate with too much honey, only to find out a year later that now it's too sweet!
 
The only thing I'd add to that lot Matt, is to remember that if you're gonna back sweeten with honey, especially if you've already aged it some, then have some finings to hand.

Honey has a funny habit of causing a haze in already cleared meads. Which I believe is a protein haze.

It's just a PITA when it happens and being the impatient git that I am, I just hit my heather honey mead with 2 part fining as I couldn't wait another 6 months plus for it to drop clear again.

regards

fatbloke
 
That's a great heads up. Thanks!

I have potassium sorbate and sulfite on hand to stabilize and have sparkolloid for fining. Tried to order anything I could think of that I might need, so I have a decent supply list here. Not extensive, but ready for some meadmaking, methinks. Anyway, this is some great advice, so thanks for that.
 
Thanks for the advice Oskar, but that's all losing site of what I want to do. I don't want to use syrup and don't want 16% abv mead. I'd rather have something closer to 13 or 14% (which means I'm leaning towards 71B or D47 now). And I'd like to just use honey and fresh cherries. Want to see the flavor from that. I can backsweeten if need be, no problem. I bought an extra kg or so of the honey in question.

I have Fermaid K, DAP and Go Ferm and will use those.

After what Ken said, I'm not going to sulfite or anything. And I'll be using the cherries in secondary.

Understood. 5 Kilos is a little over 10 lbs, and in 5 gallons that's going to be light in flavor. I was suggesting the syrup to bring the body up so the combination of dryness and acid didn't push it over the drinkability edge. QA23 is still fine, as AToE suggested just start with a lower gravity and the yeast will take it dry in no time.

Hope that helps,

Oskaar