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Maple syrup

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Kevin L Northwest Brewer

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Jan 17, 2018
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Sap is going to run soon and I have 3 gallons of last sap run on order from my cousin who makes maple syrup. I find some information about adding maple syrup to Mead but I don't find any information on Maple honey I guess you would say. All you Mead makers out there I am sure some have experimented with maple syrup if you got any good recipes I would be interested thank you

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Stasis said:
Did you search for acerglyn?
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A couple of you guys I hold in very high regard and very knowledgeable from the things I've read and I'm sure somebody out there has some experience with it that can give me some pointers if possible

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Kevin L Northwest Brewer said:
A couple of you guys I hold in very high regard and very knowledgeable from the things I've read and I'm sure somebody out there has some experience with it that can give me some pointers if possible

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From what I hear you have to use a b or a c grade so I'm having my cousin capture the very last Sapp he pulls from the trees this year and make me up 3 gallons

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I'm lucky to get enough maple syrup to put on my pancakes (at a high cost) so I can't help you here. Btw if you forget to include something in your post you can also edit your post rather than posting multiple times. I understand doing things on mobile devices could be more difficult so you're excused. I'm just making sure you're aware of this
 
Stasis said:
I'm lucky to get enough maple syrup to put on my pancakes (at a high cost) so I can't help you here. Btw if you forget to include something in your post you can also edit your post rather than posting multiple times. I understand doing things on mobile devices could be more difficult so you're excused. I'm just making sure you're aware of this
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I see the edit button now thanks man still learning these high-tech gizmos

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I'm not sure I can really help you exactly as you would like. I have made some wonderful acerglyns. But I have never had sap for one. And I don't use the maple syrup for fermentable sugars either. My experience with using it as a fermentable sugar has not been worth the cost. It doesn't seem to work well for me. So what I have done. Is to make a trad with nice syrup. Run it dry. Stabilize and backsweeten with the syrup to taste. This has worked for me the best. Sorry, I don't have any experience with Sap.
 
Squatchy said:
I'm not sure I can really help you exactly as you would like. I have made some wonderful acerglyns. But I have never had sap for one. And I don't use the maple syrup for fermentable sugars either. My experience with using it as a fermentable sugar has not been worth the cost. It doesn't seem to work well for me. So what I have done. Is to make a trad with nice syrup. Run it dry. Stabilize and backsweeten with the syrup to taste. This has worked for me the best. Sorry, I don't have any experience with Sap.
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Wow the guru actually spent the time to talk to me I feel so special and thank you. I was going to use straight maple syrup instead of the sap water and what I have heard is that it has a funkiness and kind of Woody with straight maple syrup. I got access to 3 gallons of straight syrup so I was wanting to try to do something with it. It's not really that much more expensive than honey for me. I was going to experiment with some different yeast do you have anything in mind other than d47. I am a 5-gallon batch Builder so maybe I should go down to a one gallon and do some experimentation. I am building a batch of Mead at the moment starting gravity 1.110. I use just 110 degree water to dissolve my honey with two teaspoons of dap and one teaspoon of fermented k. I have my half a cup of water with two teaspoons of Go Firm dissolved in hundred and 10 degree water and let it cool to 97 and then added 2 5 gram packages of d47. While it is hydrating I am going to oxygenate it with my .5 Stone for 2 minutes. I am going to acclimate my starter slowly to match my 70 degree must. If I am going astray please catch me now thank you

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Kevin L Northwest Brewer said:
Wow the guru actually spent the time to talk to me I feel so special and thank you. I was going to use straight maple syrup instead of the sap water and what I have heard is that it has a funkiness and kind of Woody with straight maple syrup. I got access to 3 gallons of straight syrup so I was wanting to try to do something with it. It's not really that much more expensive than honey for me. I was going to experiment with some different yeast do you have anything in mind other than d47. I am a 5-gallon batch Builder so maybe I should go down to a one gallon and do some experimentation. I am building a batch of Mead at the moment starting gravity 1.110. I use just 110 degree water to dissolve my honey with two teaspoons of dap and one teaspoon of fermented k. I have my half a cup of water with two teaspoons of Go Firm dissolved in hundred and 10 degree water and let it cool to 97 and then added 2 5 gram packages of d47. While it is hydrating I am going to oxygenate it with my .5 Stone for 2 minutes. I am going to acclimate my starter slowly to match my 70 degree must. If I am going astray please catch me now thank you

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You want to add your yeast to the slurry at 104F. I have had good succes with DV10.
 
Squatchy said:
You want to add your yeast to the slurry at 104F. I have had good succes with DV10.
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Thanks for the reply. I did add another quart of water and brought my starting gravity down to 1.100. My starting pH was 6.4 and I added two teaspoons of acid blend and brought it down to 4.4. But now since I added another quart of water I'm probably back up to 4.6 pH. Is it possible to add too much oxygen to your must?

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Kevin L Northwest Brewer said:
Thanks for the reply. I did add another quart of water and brought my starting gravity down to 1.100. My starting pH was 6.4 and I added two teaspoons of acid blend and brought it down to 4.4. But now since I added another quart of water I'm probably back up to 4.6 pH. Is it possible to add too much oxygen to your must?

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Within reason. Not very likely you could add too much O2. I have not read where that is a problem. Is it necessary? No. Will it hurt? I don't think so. I would like to say that I personally probably wouldn't add any acids up front to a mead. Although that was somewhat high. Lastly. I have not found it to be true about what people say about yeast stalling below some number ( if it's greater than 3) I have had meads drop to 3.0 and have never seen one stall in that range. I could be wrong. But I am believing that is another one of the pieces of false misinformation people repeat all the time when it's simply not true.
 
Squatchy said:
Within reason. Not very likely you could add too much O2. I have not read where that is a problem. Is it necessary? No. Will it hurt? I don't think so. I would like to say that I personally probably wouldn't add any acids up front to a mead. Although that was somewhat high. Lastly. I have not found it to be true about what people say about yeast stalling below some number ( if it's greater than 3) I have had meads drop to 3.0 and have never seen one stall in that range. I could be wrong. But I am believing that is another one of the pieces of false misinformation people repeat all the time when it's simply not true.
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Thank you so much you're such a wealth of information thanks for taking the time to answer me back

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Squatchy said:
I have not found it to be true about what people say about yeast stalling below some number ( if it's greater than 3) I have had meads drop to 3.0 and have never seen one stall in that range. I could be wrong. But I am believing that is another one of the pieces of false misinformation people repeat all the time when it's simply not true.
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I don't think this is simply that all meads stall when it goes below 3.2ph. Given subpar methods and techniques I could imagine there are mazers who have their meads stall at such a ph. The yeast would already be struggling and the low ph would do them in. Perhaps back in the day when a lot of mazers simply used dap upfront or in 2 doses and shook their vessel once or twice for air, this was true. And by back in the day I mean maybe 10 years ago or even less
 
Stasis said:
I don't think this is simply that all meads stall when it goes below 3.2ph. Given subpar methods and techniques I could imagine there are mazers who have their meads stall at such a ph. The yeast would already be struggling and the low ph would do them in. Perhaps back in the day when a lot of mazers simply used dap upfront or in 2 doses and shook their vessel once or twice for air, this was true. And by back in the day I mean maybe 10 years ago or even less
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Well I am 11 hours in since I pitch the yeast and I'm getting a burst out of the airlock every 40 seconds or so which to me seems to be a very slow start. I am starting to second-guess my two teaspoons of dap and only one teaspoon of fermaid K. I checked my log from the first batch I made with d47 and I find I used 5 teaspoons dap and 5 teaspoons fermaid k. I had a good start 4 hours in on that batch. I used a wine whip to oxygenate that batch. This batch I used my .5 Stone. My first batch I started at 71° this batch is starting at 64 degrees. It has been over 3 minutes now since my airlock has moved I am starting to panic

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Go buy a hydrometer. Bubbles tell us nothing. Go learn about feeding your yeast the modern way and toss the DAP. Go listen to the podcast starting on 9/5/17
 
Squatchy said:
Go buy a hydrometer. Bubbles tell us nothing. Go learn about feeding your yeast the modern way and toss the DAP. Go listen to the podcast starting on 9/5/17
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I am embarrassed to say I am so low-skilled in this Tech thing I have searched and can't find a link to the podcast. I do have a hydrometer. I feel silly asking you for a link do that I would love to read it thanks

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