Newbee's first batch
- Thread starter shmoab
- Start date
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I generally remove some using a long tube called a wine thief, and measure the gravity of a column of the must in the storage tube that the hydrometer comes in. I'll also check pH using a small amount of the same sample.
That way, after the measurements if there is any remaining I have a sample all set for tasting! ;D
That way, after the measurements if there is any remaining I have a sample all set for tasting! ;D
well it depends on how anal or maybe hygienic you want to be.....
Some will use a wine thief, others a syphon tube (some frown on that as basic syphons need to be sucked with the mouth to start - others buy an auto syphon etc), some (me) have a turkey baster that's dedicated to winemaking....
Yes, you can, of course, put the sanitised hydrometer straight into the fermenter, but DJ's/carboys can make it hard to take a reading properly and it can be difficult to get it back out of them as well.
If it's your first batch then I'd suggest that you follow the instructions to the letter..... that way you've got a benchmark to work to.
I make most of my meads in 1 gallon batches anyway, so there's no cost issue in making the original recipe or variations of it. That way, once you achieve the flavour you enjoy most, you can then scale it up......
regards
fatbloke
I think I have an impending stall or I'm worrying too much.
I'm only getting one bubble every 30 seconds out of the airlock.
3lbs blackberry honey
1 inch of Madagascar vanilla been
1 tsp nutrient
1/2 tsp acid
1/2 packet (est) Lalvin EC-118
This was a no-boil method. I pitched yeast that had been activated for 25 mins. I don't think that's the problem, though, because my other gallon batch is still going strong and it had the other half of the packet, after 45 mins of activation.
Maybe it could be the vanilla bean. All I did with that was take it out jar, cut it up and throw it in the must. I probably should have washed it.
Opinions?
I'm only getting one bubble every 30 seconds out of the airlock.
3lbs blackberry honey
1 inch of Madagascar vanilla been
1 tsp nutrient
1/2 tsp acid
1/2 packet (est) Lalvin EC-118
This was a no-boil method. I pitched yeast that had been activated for 25 mins. I don't think that's the problem, though, because my other gallon batch is still going strong and it had the other half of the packet, after 45 mins of activation.
Maybe it could be the vanilla bean. All I did with that was take it out jar, cut it up and throw it in the must. I probably should have washed it.
Opinions?
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Don't rely on bubble count for a reliable measure of how well your fermentation is progressing. A hydrometer is your best friend! If you can tell us your starting gravity and your current gravity, we can offer you better advice.
Also, do you have a means for measuring the pH of your must? The addition of acid blend up front like this may have driven your pH too low (below 3.2). Most people here agree that acid additions up front are unnecessary and can easily lead to a stuck fermentation. Add acid in secondary only after fermentation is complete. And then taste things first. You might find that you don't really need it all.
So: get us some gravity readings and a pH reading as well (if possible)
:cheers:
Wade
Also, do you have a means for measuring the pH of your must? The addition of acid blend up front like this may have driven your pH too low (below 3.2). Most people here agree that acid additions up front are unnecessary and can easily lead to a stuck fermentation. Add acid in secondary only after fermentation is complete. And then taste things first. You might find that you don't really need it all.
So: get us some gravity readings and a pH reading as well (if possible)
:cheers:
Wade
Was that awful taste just because it is sickeningly sweet, or was there another problem? Fermenting mead often tastes nasty. How old is this batch that is stalling?
What temperature are you maintaining for the fermentation? Cold slows things way down.
Wildaho's point about the acid is a good one. If you can check the pH it may be very helpful. EC-1118 can often work in a very acidic environment but it slows down dramatically and takes a long time to get going.
What temperature are you maintaining for the fermentation? Cold slows things way down.
Wildaho's point about the acid is a good one. If you can check the pH it may be very helpful. EC-1118 can often work in a very acidic environment but it slows down dramatically and takes a long time to get going.
75-80 is very warm to keep a fermenting mead. It will produce a real foul tasting mead full of fusel alcohols and medicinal phenolic character that will take years to mellow. In any cases, unless you had some high temperature spike that damaged the yeast, the temp is not the cause for your slow fermentation.
The acidity suggests pH problems. Again, how long has this been fermenting?
The acidity suggests pH problems. Again, how long has this been fermenting?
You can use a water bath and a T-shirt to make a swamp cooler that will lower the temp quite effectively in a desert climate. There is a chart that outlines the temperature effect (scroll down that page).
If you cannot control the temp - yeast selection becomes important. K1V may be a better choice. In the Patron's area there is a high temperature fermentation comparion called the HotMead Yeast Test that you might find interesting if you plan on fermenting at these temps.
If you cannot control the temp - yeast selection becomes important. K1V may be a better choice. In the Patron's area there is a high temperature fermentation comparion called the HotMead Yeast Test that you might find interesting if you plan on fermenting at these temps.
If you were to write off every batch of mead that tastes harsh during fermentation, you may never get any. I would see if I could get it to finish. You can add a bit more nutrient, but I don't think that is your problem - EC-1118 is capable of fermenting with few nutrients. Your last gravity reading was 1.080 on 11/25/09
What is the current gravity?
How many days has this been fermenting?
Any luck borrowing a pH meter (or getting some strips)?
What is the current gravity?
How many days has this been fermenting?
Any luck borrowing a pH meter (or getting some strips)?
Thanks, Medsen. I'll get some strips and post the results.
On another note. Are the benefits of the patron membership worth the money? I know it's only $25 but I've become frugal in these hard-economic-times.
Does it offer anything I can't already find in the open forums?
On another note. Are the benefits of the patron membership worth the money? I know it's only $25 but I've become frugal in these hard-economic-times.
Does it offer anything I can't already find in the open forums?On another note. Are the benefits of the patron membership worth the money? I know it's only $25 but I've become frugal in these hard-economic-times.
I think so, but as always YMMV. If you become a Patron you will have access to all the recipes on the site (the best ones are available only to Patrons), and as well you'll be able to read the Patrons forums, which often include far more technical detail than can be found in the general access threads (including some analysis and data directly from Ken Schramm). I'd say that if you want to get more serious about your meadmaking, it is a small investment to make for a great return. And you help Vicky to keep the site up, since she supports this place entirely out of pocket, with the exception of a small amount from advertising and the Patron subscriptions.
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Shmoab, it would be really helpful to see where the gravity is now.
My opinion may be skewed, but I don't think you can invest $25 in any better way if you want to improve your mead making. Oskaar's recipes alone are worth the price. Wayneb's brewlogs, likewise. There is a wealth of information there that could easily easily fill a huge book, and it costs less than a gallon of honey. It is the best $25 I've spent on mead.
I personally consider the 25$ fee a two-birds-with-one-stone type payment. If you want seriously good looking recipes, they're in there. Even if you don't use them, the ideas and understanding I've gained just from reading them over and over are great to have. Like Medsen said as well, reading the brewlogs of people who really have a rock solid grasp on fermentation managment is also great.
Secondly, even before I went into the patrons section, this website had saved me a lot of money and frustration. Without the mead calculator and newbee guide and basic help in the non-patron forums from the mead mentors, I would have probably ended up with stalled meads and bottle bombs. So that 25$ helps pay for this entire website, and in my case has already paid for itself five or six fold in honey I didn't waste, without even considering the content in the patrons area.
How's that for an "un"-biased plug?!
Secondly, even before I went into the patrons section, this website had saved me a lot of money and frustration. Without the mead calculator and newbee guide and basic help in the non-patron forums from the mead mentors, I would have probably ended up with stalled meads and bottle bombs. So that 25$ helps pay for this entire website, and in my case has already paid for itself five or six fold in honey I didn't waste, without even considering the content in the patrons area.
How's that for an "un"-biased plug?!
It has been fermenting 28 days. The SG is 1.006 and the PH is 3.6. The fermentation has all but stopped in both my 1 gal. batches. They have a similar taste, not sweet at all, even though they were prepared differently.
The temp. has been ~65 degrees for about 10 days.
I just checked my first batch. It's 1.020, ph 3.4 and tastes and looks great. Cheered me up after those stalls.
Can someone recommend a mead making book?
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