no idea how to make a braggot

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capoeirista13

Honey Master
Registered Member
Aug 17, 2008
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Philadelphia
i have no idea how to make a braggot, because i have no idea how to make a beer, but i would like to try and make a braggot w/ a heavy orange accent

so what r the basics of making a braggot?
 
Well as you see from my post above I am new to braggot/bracket, but I have made about 10 different mead recipes and 2 for beer so I will start off the replies and others who know more can add and subtract. But as long as you are not a purist, I think I can make some easy suggestions.

Like all meads, the name is a matter of semantics which is based on what you put into it other than honey, as long as honey is the predominant supplier of fermentable sugars. In the case of a braggot, you need some beer sugars (malt extract, syrup or making your own mash) and that is about it. I have read hops is optional, but I like hoppy bear so it will never be optional in my recipes. But there you go, you got a braggot (though there are additional suggestions about boiling, especially the hops).

Assuming by what you have said that you are well familiar with making mead you already have all the equipment you need to make beer, with the exception of a large non-reactive pot so if you have something already you are set.

If you want to try making a beer first to get your feet wet like I did but want to keep it simple, buy something like this kit first, there are a bunch of types to suit your taste. It has every ingredient you need right down to the beer caps for around $32. Assuming you only make mead, you may need a bottle capper and beer bottles, but I already use a combination of beer and wine bottles for my meads. All the instructions are in the kit on 2 sides of one page and it really could not be simpler. I never read about or made a beer before and my first one came out really good. Once you see how simple it is to make beer, it is easy to make a braggot. In fact if you want to leave out half of the malt extract from the kit (they seem to always come with two 3lb cans of syrup or bags of dry extract or a combination) and add 5, 10 or more pounds of honey and let it age a while longer like you would a mead, then you have a braggot right there.

I am playing with my own recipe for my first one and if it turns out ok, I will post it here. I am way behind in posting my others though so may take a while. Most of the recipes I have seen mainly only contain honey, malt syrup, wine yeast and optional hops, but I am going to try adding some specialty grains like they do in the kits I linked. I want something strong and frothy!
 
so what r the basics of making a braggot?

Braggot can be made using standard beer brewing methods...it is typically comprised of honey, malt, hops, water, and yeast...quantities of which are quite varied...I have brewed batches in the 6-7% ABV range which were ready to drink in several weeks as well as high gravity versions (10-11%) that require years to reach maturity.

I would recommend that if you have at least the basic beer brewing equipment that you start with a lower gravity.

Some will argue that hops are what determine if it is called a beer or mead...but based on all my research it appears that Braggots were originally made by mixing equal parts of beer and mead, often right at the bar before serving...and since the beer would most likely have been made with hops it would make sense that hops be part of the ingredients list.

The first braggot I made used equal parts honey and LME (liquid malt extract), both bittering and aroma hops and a liquid ale yeast. IMHO, both the honey and malt flavors should be present and balanced in a quality braggot recipe.

All of these items should be available online or at one of your local homebrew stores...Barrys Homebrew Outlet and Home Sweet Homebrew are both located in Philadelphia, and Keystone Homebrew is just north of town in Montgomeryville.

I'm not really sure how you would get the heavy orange accent unless you used orange blossom honey...I may have to try that

One other note...If you upgrade to a Patron membership I know of at least one recipe that I will be trying to make that is in the Patron section. :happy3:

Vino
 
If you browse through both the "Beer, Honey?" and "Brewlog" forums you will find scads of Braggots that members here have done. Heck, you might even just try a forum search to see what you can find. You can pick up some ideas on what is involved by reading those posts.

And Vino is right, there are even more (and detailed) recipes and brewlogs in the Patron's section. It's definitely worth the investment!8)
 
This is the very first braggot I made back in 2006 - I still make braggot, but I do so with all-grain now. Here are my notes from my Brew Log as written. I will tell you that, this stuff becomes pretty remarkable when you let it age at least 12 months, preferably 18. By the way, JoeM is a forum member here.

JoeM's Basic Braggot

08/06/2006 – Basic Braggot – 6 Gallons


This is the first time I will have made a braggot. I’m using a recipe that I got off of GotMead.com (JoeM) which was suggested as a very good Braggot for a beginner – or a seasoned mead maker to make. Here are the ingredients:

• 10 ounces of 120L Crystal Malt
• 3.3 pounds of light DME
• 6 pounds clover honey (I used Gordon Foods brand)
• ¾ ounce of Cluster Hops (pelleted)
• White Labs Dry English Ale Yeast (WLP002)

Here is the process / procedure I used:

1. First of all, because I am making 6 gallons instead of the 5 gallons that the recipe calls for, I decided to make a starter from the yeast. I boiled 500 ml of water and got the temp down to 80 degrees. I then added 3 tablespoons of DME and then the yeast. Stirred it all in my magnetic stirrer, added the foam top, and placed it in my closet for 12 hours. Will be ready to pitch at 8:30 PM.

2. Brought 5 gallons of water to 150 degrees. Added my Crystal malt which I put into a grain sock and steeped for 30 minutes, after which point I removed the bag.

3. Brought the wort to boiling and then added the DME and ¾ ounce of Cluster Hops.

4. Removed from heat and stirred in the 6 pounds of clover honey. Used my lees stirrer to perform this task and made sure to aerate very, very well.

5. Used my wort chiller to bring the temp down to about 100, at which point I brought the brew kettle downstairs and aerated the wort in the kettle.

6. Transferred wort to 6 ½ gallon carboy and shook the hell out of it to continue with the aeration process.

7. Pitched my yeast starter at 9:00 PM – 12 ½ hours after making it. I was anticipating the beaker to be overflowing with krausen but it wasn’t – it didn’t look that much different than when I made it. Hopefully everything will be OK.

08/07/2006 - And they’re off! Getting about 16 bubbles per minute coming out of the airlock as of 4:30 AM. I also just realized I FORGET to get a SG reading!

HAD A GEYSER / BIG MESS when I came home from the gym this evening!!! The airlock blew off and there is sticky shit ALL over the place. Took a SG = 1.050 – don’t know how meaningful it is because of the lateness. Removed the airlock and just used a bung with the hole in the center. Stay tuned.

08/08/2008 – Looks like the nastiest part of the mess is over. Reinstalled the airlock – fermentation activity has dropped to about 70 bubbles per minute. Everything looks good. 9:00 PM – Still got 70 + BPM – very strong fermentation!

08/09/2006 – Fermentation down to 60 BPM.

08/10/2006 – Fermentation down to 32 BPM.

08/13/2006 – Fermentation down to 10 BPM. Noted that the braggot is starting to clear.

08/17/2006 – Fermentation down to less than 2 BPM.

09/04/2006 – Boiled 16 ounces of water with 5.5 ounces of corn sugar. Put into my sanitized bottling bucket into which I racked the braggot. After racking, I very gently stirred the mixture to ensure the sugar was evenly distributed. Bottled 48 Grolsch bottles which I am planning on conditioning the braggot in for the next 6 months. Stay tuned for updates as I’m sure I’ll be sampling one much sooner that that! I did sample about 4 ounces that was leftover – tasted like a sweet, flat beer.
 
i would like to try and make a braggot w/ a heavy orange accent

After further thought on this, maybe you could obtain the orange accent you are looking to achieve using dried orange peel (bitter or sweet) which you would need to add at the end of the boil...probably 1/2-1 oz per 5 gallons, another way would be to add pure orange extract at bottling which would allow you to mix to your personal taste...maybe a combination of the two methods.

I like orange in weizens, so I have experimented with orange extract...I've come close to what I was trying to create...but nothing beats a fresh slice in the glass.

BTW, the peel and extract should be available at your LHBS or online.

Good luck,
Vino
 
For great orange flavor and aroma try adding just the orange zest to your secondary instead. It works great for both beers and meads and is much more intense than peel or whole fruit added earlier. Tangelos work even better than oranges.
 
I ended up using Ken Schramm's Barley-wine style Braggot receipe from the book and it was astounding. Hands down it's probably the best braggot or anything in a beer-like style I've ever made.
 
what is zest exactly?

thx for saying the LME is liquid malt extract i kept seeing that but didn't know what it was

at any rate, i have no idea how to make beer, which is why i have no idea how to make a braggot, im not really sure what a lot of the terms mean and stuff

is there any equipment you need for beer that you don't need for mead/wine? I only have mead/wine equipment at the moment

a lot of times in braggot/beer recipes i see things like
3 # crystal
what does that mean?
 
Zest is the orange part of the peel without any white parts or pith. There are special tools made to get it off the orange but I usually use either a micro plane or a very fine grater. Just don't go so deep as to get to the white part. It's high in oils and brings great aroma and flavor. The zest from one or two oranges goes a long way (or tangelos or lemons or limes or other citrus fruit).

If you have never brewed beer before, check out John Palmer's How To Brew website. He has placed the entire contents of the first edition of his book out there free for everyone to use. He will walk you through the process and if you follow it, it's pretty much foolproof.

The major difference between making beer and making mead is the boil you HAVE to do for beer. Without the boil, the alpha acids in the hops won't isomerize and the proteins in the malt won't coagulate out. A wort chiller is a big help in making a clean beer but not entirely necessary. Beer usually doesn't require nutrient additions as these are provided by the malt. Other than that, fermentation is fermentation. The beer isn't as picky about it as mead is however.

The 3# Crystal you see in recipes refers to a certain type of malted barley in which it has been partially mashed (stewed) to start the conversion from starches to sugars. It's then been kilned (baked) at a certain temperature to crystallize or caramelize the sugars. It comes in different grades such as 20, 40, 80, 120, etc. with each higher numbered grade having more caramelization and hence, darker color. The grade usually refers to the degrees Lovibond (a measure of color) that the grain will contribute to the final beer.

Unlike most malted barley, Crystal or "Cara" malts do not require a mash to convert the starches to sugars. It's already been done. Steeping in 150 degree water is usually all that is required to extract the caramelized sugars into your wort.

Whew! I typed that pretty fast! I didn't think I could move that fast whilst suffering from Turkey Torpor!

:cheers:
Wade
 
To add to what Wade said, crystal malts also do not contain any enzymes (another reason they don't need to be mashed). Kilning burns away the enzymes, so any long-chain sugars in the malt will remain mostly unfermentable (at least by beer yeasts). I can't remember if wine yeasts will start eating up the 3, 4, 5 ring sugars or not...

Anyway, crystal malts tend to add a lot of sweetness to the beer due to the high percentage of large sugars. So use sparingly to avoid a sweet finish, or use a lot if you want sugar left over. Honey obviously ferments out completely, so you can balance the honey and malt contributions to give you the desired level of residual sweetness.
 
For great orange flavor and aroma try adding just the orange zest to your secondary instead. It works great for both beers and meads and is much more intense than peel or whole fruit added earlier. Tangelos work even better than oranges.

I never really thought about the zest...I guess because I am leary about adding anything to the secondary of my beer...how much would you suggest for a 5 gallon batch of hefe?

Vino
 
In my Belgian Golden recipe I use the zest of 2 to 3 oranges to balance with the massive spices (corriandar, licorice, star anise, allspice, black pepper) in the beer. For a nice phenolic german style hefe, I'd try 1 maybe 2. For an american style hefe, maybe 1. It depends on how orangey you want it. You may not get it right the first time but then that's just an excuse to brew again!

I've never had a problem with adding things in secondary but then most of my beers are usually in the 8% - 12% range. :drunken_smilie:
 
Well it just happens that I have an empty primary...I was planning to brew a honey wheat ale with fireweed honey...looks like it will be an Orange/Honey Wheat Ale.

I think I'll start with the zest of 2 medium oranges.

Vino