Old ElderBEERy - a recipe for Ebulon

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Medsen Fey

Fuselier since 2007
Premium Patron
EBULON

Zebulon who??
Not Zebulon... Ebulon.

Ebulon - a malt beverage made with elderberries. It is described in "The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History," written by John Bickerdyke in 1890 which was:

Dedicated to the Brewers of the United Kingdom and All Who Value Honest Malt Liquor

In it he states:

Among the various beverages which good house-wives deemed it their duty to brew were Elderberry Beer, or Ebulon, Cowslip Ale,Blackberry Ale, China Ale and Apricot Ale...
...Ebulon, which is said to have been preferred by some people toport, was made thus : In a hogshead of the first and strongest wort was boiled one bushel of ripe elderberries. The wort was then strained and, when cold, worked (i.e., fermented) in a hogshead (not an open tun or tub). Having lain in cask for about a year it was bottled. Some persons added an infusion of hops by way of preservative and relish,and some likewise hung a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel.White Ebulon was made with pale malt and white elderberries.

So this describes a barley-wine style brew that can be stored for long aging and which takes on a port-like character. There are recipes out there suggesting a starting gravity of 1.120 for such. There are also a number of other recipe approaches that produce lighter batches with a lower ABV that may be ready for drinking much soon. Given my passion for elderberry tonic, I am looking to make something that will be ready fast (the Covid Coronavirus is already upon us) and won't clobber me if I have a big glass of it.

To be truthful, I also had been doing some clean-up in the garage, and there was a pile of old malt in the fridge that I had purchased with the intention of making a Vienna Lager style braggot that I never got around to brewing. This old malt has been sitting in there for years (at least 4 or 5), so I don't trust it for making a crisp, clean lager, but since it was dry, still smelled and tasted OK, I figured it might be OK for a bunch of elderberries. I've had a bunch of dried elderberries hiding in there as well, and they are still fine.

I haven't brewed anything in quite some time, so my technique is rusty, and another reason I wanted to do this batch was to practice a little brewing before I make my next Braggot, which I want to do as a Berliner Weisse style sour, but I digress.

Ingredients
Vienna Malt (old) - 5 pounds, crushed
Munton's Extra Light Dry Malt Extract (old) - 2 pounds
Bries Light Dry Malt Extract (old) - 2 pounds
Tettnang Hops (German) (old) - 2 oz
Ginger Root (fresh) - 4 oz sliced
Dried Elderberries (old) - 2 pounds
Water - approximately 4 gallons

Yeast - Safebrew T-58 (old) 11.5g

I used about 2 1/2 gallons of water to make wort using the Vienna malt maintaining the temperature between 150-155 (more or less). The pH was 5.9. I continued steeping the grain for about an hour, then sparged it with hot water up to about 4 gallons. I then added in the DME and got the gravity up to about 16 Brix (Est 1.065). I'm hoping to get something that may be in the 6-7% ABV range - something easily drinkable but with enough ABV to minimize spoilage and allow some aging.

I boiled the wort with 1 oz of the Hops and all of the sliced ginger. The hops are old and I don't expect any IBU contribution from this. I mostly added them for antibacterial properties and some aroma/flavor. The ginger I chose to provide some additional aromatic impact, and it may be good for warding off fevers. There are Ebulon recipes out there that call for ginger so I'm not straying too far from tradition.

At flame out, I added the last ounce of Hops for aroma, and the elderberries in a brewing bag. I didn't want to do a prolonged boil as some of the antiviral activity of the elderberry may be lost with high heats. That should quickly rehydrate and rupture all the berries. These dried elderberries should be the equivalent of 5-6 pounds of fresh elderberries.

I was too lazy to hook up the wort chiller, so I just sat the brewpot on the first step of the "cement pond" and that cooled it down reasonable quickly. I racked it into a 10-gallon corny keg which I'm using as a primary fermenter. I also transferred the bag with the elderberries and aroma hops. I asked my youngest daughter how it smells and she said, "it smells INTERESTING..." That does not fill me with a great sense of confidence, but to me the malt and elderberry and ginger smelled pretty good.

I chose the Safebrew T-58 because, A) I had it hiding in the fridge, B) it can ferment well at room temp, C) it produces lots of esters and that may help this batch a lot, and D) it is a good strain for bottle conditioning which I may want to do with this batch (I haven't decided yet). This particular packet represent the record for me so far - it has been in the fridge at least 8 years. I rehydrated it with GoFerm, and then proofed it with 6 fl oz of apple juice. That took off without any delay. I did notice that while mixing them in, they did tend to clump together more than most yeast. Whether that is the characteristic that makes them good for bottle conditioning or just a function of them being old, I cannot say. I pitched the yeast, and hooked up a blow-off tube.

Batch size - 4 gallons
Starting gravity - 16 Brix (1.065)
Fermentation temp - 73-75 F

So virtually everything in this batch is old - old malt, old hops, old elderberries, old yeast, old brewer. We will see how it turns out. I've order some more elderberries to put together another batch that will be sack strength, and likely will include some honey to create a sack-strength port-like barley-wine braggot. Any suggestions for recipes and approaches are welcome. I can imagine that a recipe that produced a lambic-like sour would also make a good Ebulon.

By the way, in the Curiosites of Ale & Beer, I noted that in one of the footnotes Bickerdyke mentioned the origin of the term Sack in wine.
[SUP]1[/SUP] There were several kinds of Sack—Sherris, Malmsey, &c. Theword is derived from saco, the skin in which Spanish wines were imported.
The book also has a recipe for Cock Ale, and is probably worth a full read.

 
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Great recipe, Medsen Fey. I wish you luck with it. Cowslip ale. When I was in the south of England a couple of years ago I had the opportunity to taste some cowslip wine. It was incredible. I gotta say that elderflower, heather and cowslip wines are (in my opinion) WAY up there.
 
Day 2
The lag phase was over in about 3 hours and it has been bubbling away ever since. Not bad for yeast that are 6 years past their "best-used-by" date, although we really can't judge until it is finished and can taste the results. It certainly smells good at this point.
 
Day 4
Hydrometer Gravity 1.014

It has stopped bubbling and I think it may be done. I'll watch the gravity for another day before I decide to rack. It smells good, and looks red. The taste is quite dry and it isn't bad at all, but the elderberries at this amount are going to leave it with IPA-level bitterness due to the tannins.

I extracted the bag with the elderberries; they've done enough. I did not plan to press them at all, but trying to take out a very full bag through the mouth of a carboy caused more squeezing than I would have wished. OH Well..... live and learn. I put the elderberries in a bucket and stuck them in the fridge at 40F to prevent bacterial spoilage while I figure out how to use them for a 2nd run batch tomorrow. There is still a lot elderberry flavor left to be used. When I do this again, I'm cutting down on the elderberry unless I'm making a port-style batch.
 
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Ebulon’s Sloppy Seconds Sour Mash

So I’ve kept thinking about a lambic-style ebulon, and I decided to give it a shot with stuff I have that’s just been going to waste sitting in the fridge. My plan is to brew up another batch of wort, reuse the elderberries, and make a sour style ale that won’t have overpowering tannins. I’m debating if I want to use ginger or some other combination of spice/herbs. I don’t really want to run a bacterial fermentation in my brewing area for now, so I’m taking a different approach than most would be using; I’m souring first, then brewing. So here’s where I am so far:

Ingredients:
Dark Vienna Malt (old) 2 pounds
Car Pils Malt (old) 2 pounds
Mystery Malt (I don’t remember what it is - could be Marris Otter, or could be some simple 2-row) 2 pounds

I simply mashed this all between 150-160F without any rests for about 1 hour in a couple of gallons of water, then sparged it with a bit more than a gallon. I then raised up the temp to inactivate any enzymes, but I haven’t boiled it. I’m cooling it down to ambient South Florida temp of 80-85F. I’m getting a refractometer reading of 7 Brix. I’m guessing my mash efficiency is terrible, but so be it. I am leaving it in the brew pot with the lid on.

Now I don’t have a commercial sour culture to utilize, and I didn’t feel like waiting for something to get here, but I do keep a SCOBY running in my Kombucha making, and that is full of lactic and acetic acid bacteria. So I’m going to pour in some Kombucha with SCOBY - 1 cup (240cc). I’m going to let it stay out in the heat, which bacteria like, until it has a good sour twang - I’m guessing 48-72 hours. The Kombucha batches I’ve made don’t get sulfur stinky, so they should work. They do produce some volatile acidity, but some of that will boil off later. I’m throwing the elderberries (still in the bag from the original bag) at the same time. I’ll remove them before it gets too tannic, but I’m not sure when that will be.

When this mash is sour enough, I will bring to a boil, adding enough light dry malt extract to get the gravity I want - I’m thinking somewhere between 1.040 and 1.050. I have some old hops - I have to see what’s in there. I think there are some aged Hallertauer. l’ll boil an ounce for 30 min, and add some at flameout. I will not boil the elderberries. If it doesn’t have enough elderberry before I boil, I’ll remove the bag and add it back at flameout. I may keep the ginger, but may dial it back to 1/2 ounce per gallon.

This way, the wort will be pasteurized before it goes into the fermenter and I don’t have to worry about bacteria in my brewing equipment. I will keep the current ebulon batch in the primary until this batch is cooled. I’ll then rack the first batch to another keg, and put this second batch on the yeast cake to let it work its magic a second time. I’ll make sure the pH is OK. I may use some nutrient in this second batch, but will definitely use some yeast hulls as the bacteria can leave some yeast inhibitors in the wort.


As for the original batch, I’ll probably fine it with egg-white or PVPP to lessen the tannin impact. I’m leaning toward bottle conditioning this batch as the tannins might come together with some age, and beers age better when bottle conditioned.

Any of you more-experienced brewers who want to share any advice, it is welcome.

If any newbies are reading this, take this as a lesson in how to jump in a learn while trying something new. The main difference between you and those of us who serve as mentors is that we’ve screwed up more batches than you have, and have learned a lot about how not to make meads and brews. Learning, even the hard way, can be fun. So if you get a batch that isn’t good, try tweaking it, or blending it, or aging it, and if nothing works, and it is just BAD then chalk it up to learning, and recognize we are all still learning.

Good meading!
Medsen
 
Thanks for the detailed post. It is very useful and interesting to be able to get a glimpse in the process you are following.
Kudos for the hallertauer, but I need to ask. I understand why you add it at flameout, and it is something I would also do, but why aren't you adding some before that? Are you going purely for its aroma?
 
I do plan to add a a dose of hops during boiling - probably for 30 min or less for a little flavor, and then at flameout for more aromatics. I won’t be doing a long boil because these aged hops will have very little alpha acids remaining and no need to isomerize them. Aged hops are a typical component of lambics, and aren’t really used for bittering.
 
Sloppy Seconds Day 2
I probably should have split this off as a separate brewlog, but here it is.
The brewpot is sitting on the back patio and covered. I looked in and there is a layer of some bubbling and it is already starting to smell like Kombucha. There are probably Saccharomyces Boulardii at work in there too but that will be fine. They'll all get boiled to death as soon as it is sour enough.
 
Sloppy Seconds Day 3
It still isn't sour enough yet though it is developing.
The tannins from the berries are increasing and I decided to remove the berries at this point. I took the free-run but didn't squeeze/press because the tannin load would probably be overwhelming. Tannins are probably why you don't see a lot of elderberry lambics - they really are better for the barleywine port style.The berries probably had more to give, but now they are mulching the meyer lemon tree.
 
Sloppy Seconds Day 5
There is a nasty layer of spoilage organisms covering my must/wort - PERFECT! :headbang:
I tasted a small sample it is is getting that sour twang and has some vinegar aroma, but no nasty sulfur smells. I'm tempted to leave it one more day, but I don't want to over-do it.

I looked up Flanders Red Ales and it turns out my Vienna malt is one of the typical choices, along with hallertauer hops, and my choice of spoilage organisms (lactic acid bacteria and acetic acid bacteria). Apparently Pediococcus and Brett are more typical for Lambics. So I accidentally stumbled into meeting the style guidelines - whaddayaknow? To keep it going I'll give it some oak - I have to to see what I have in the closet, but probably some medium or heavy toast American as I don't need a lot of tannins here. I will keep it very light - 1 g/L or less.
 
So I split the difference and let it go about 12 more hours.

Hydrometer gravity 1.014
pH 4.2

So this has been fermenting with the Sacharomyces Boulardii and the various bacteria. The starting gravity of 7 Brix is roughly 1.028, so it has dropped 14 points more or less. I put the brewpot on the bayou cooker and started heating. I added dry malt extract to get the gravity (adjusted for temp) up to 1.036 so my overall starting gravity equivalent would be about 1.050 (adding the 14 points that have already fermented).

I added:
Briess Light DME - 800g
Aged Hallertauer hops 2 oz (1 with 20 min boil and 1 ounce at flameout)
Yeast Hulls - 4g

Batch size - 3.5 gallons

I used the wort chiller to get it down to 85F (about as good as you can get it in South FL). I then racked it onto the T-58 lees from the first batch. I aerated them for several hours before this to get them ready and hopefully prevent any elderberry-lees reductive issues. I decided to forgo the ginger and just see what we get. It smells good, but despite the fact that these hops are 5+ years old because they've lived in the fridge, it may have preserved them and I have a lot more hop aroma than I was counting on; it is probably more than is proper for a Flanders Red though it smells quite nice. I am continuing to ferment at room temp. I'm actually optimistic that this may wind up tasting pretty good. I don't plan to bottle condition this one; I'll force carbonate once it is clear.


Ebulon batch one
Hydrometer Gravity 1.014 (unchanged)

I racked this batch earlier and it has an interesting flavor that might turn out OK, but has intense elderberry tannins and some bitterness in a long finish. This is IPA level bitterness. I did an egg-white fining, and have put in in the fridge to clear it. My plan is to bottle condition this one as aging may help it quite a bit. I think this one is going to be a little rough for a while. I suppose I could stabilize, backsweeten a little and force carbonate. That might make it more drinkable a lot sooner.
 
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Sloppy Seconds Day 8
Hydrometer Gravity 1.014
Est. ABV 5%

I think this was done about 24 hours after pitch. That T-58 is an impressive performer. It doesn't smell phenolic or particularly estery despite pitching at 85F and fermenting at 73-75F. It smells of noble hops and malt with that Kombucha sour aroma - it smells quite good. It is very yeasty but I think it is going to taste pretty good too. I racked it and put it in the fridge to clear. I'll plan to rack again and then force carbonate for bottling (though it might get sampled to extinction from the keg if it turns out the way it is shaping up so far). I have to remember to give it a dash of oak tomorrow.

I'm getting an itch to make this again, but to go all the way and let it ferment completely with the Kombucha culture. I'm sure the Saccharomyces Boulardii could do the job effectively, and the bacteria would finish attenuating everything possible. It would be SOUR! Never let it be said that I was satisfied with balance.

I may want to get more of the T-58. I'd like to see what it does as part of another HotMead test. It might not do badly at all.
 
Ebulon Batch Day 20

It has been in the fridge for nearly two weeks. It hasn't completely cleared. It smells like beer with some fruity aromas; the ginger is the background. It tastes decent with IPA-level bitterness but a clean finish. Ultimately, I think this is going to be drinkable, though I'm over the IPA craze, and don't need my beers to be so bitter they make my mouth feel raw.

I'm going to rack it to a bottling bucket, and prime it with enough sugar for 3 volumes of CO2 (12 g/l) and I'll bottle it up using beer bottles and crown caps. Then I will let it bottle condition. I'll keep 1 in a plastic bottle to monitor the carbonation.
 
Ebulon Batch
There wasn't as much sediment when I racked this as I'd hoped to see. This batch is going to leave a lot of sediment in the bottles, so I did use 22 oz beer bottles. Hopefully the T-58 packs down OK, but it certainly doesn't settle and clear as fast as a lot of yeast I've seen (again, maybe because they are past the expiration date by a few years). This stuff is dark red with a body that is thick like a stout. I don't know how much head retention it will have, but during bottling it wasn't very foamy, so my guess is that will be thin. There is plenty of elderberry aroma, but you can still tell there is malt and hops. The flavor is beer-like with an elderberry flavor that is pronounced and the bitterness of an IPA - a chewy, blood red IPA. I can imagine this is what you'd get served in Hell when you belly-up to Beelzebub's Bar and ask for the draft IPA. :evil4: