Toggle sidebar

P.H drop and SUPER FAST fermentation.

  • PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.
Barrel Char Wood Products
J

Jezter

NewBee
Registered Member
Sep 4, 2013
50
0
0
Alberta, Canada
www.whiteearthhoney.com
Hi All,

Couple questions and topics of discussion.

I have a new batch going of peach melomel.

This batch is fermenting extremely fast. Beginning s.g was 1.090 and after only 4 days I am at 1.022 with lavlin 1116. This seems to me to be exceptionally fast and I have read several books and it always says that the faster/healthier fermention the better.Is this true and do i have a record breaking fermentation?

But I have noticed a p.h drop from 4.4 to 2.8 and today I had to add some calc carbonate. I am a beekeeper and I am always using my own honey. I have had quite a few massive ph drops with most of my meads. What is it that causes the PH drop? Is it the vinegar bacteria?? Is this normal?? Is it possible to have a successful or partially sucessful mead and fermentation plus the vinger contamination? Is it exceptionally easy to have this contamination? Lets say for example, here it is winter time and the furnace is blowing air around could the bacteria be air bound??

ALSO i have noticed, these boards used to be very busy. Is it losing popularity for some reason or is it just me?
 
The fermentation process carried out by yeast is what causes the massive drop in pH. If your pH drops below 3, generally the yeast stall out and possibly produce fusels. To avoid this outcome, I generally add 1/4 tsp per gallon of potassium carbonate. Potassium carbonate serves to buffer the pH in order to prevent the must from dropping to the danger zone. (Bonus: potassium is a limiting nutrient in honey that increases the yeast alcohol tolerance. Two birds, one stone.)

Combining pH buffering with Staggered Nutrient Additions. (SNAs), I've fermented 1.100 musts to 1.000 in 3 days on occasion. You can look at my Bray's One Month Mead. (BOMM) for a good pH buffering/nutrient schedule example. It uses a specific yeast for mead in a month, but it works well for any yeast.

Fast ferments are generally clean ferments. If ferments go fast, it indicates your yeast are very happy with the environment. Happy yeast generate meads with less fusels leading to faster drinking mead!

Activity on the boards fluctuates. Before Christmas there is generally a lull followed by an uptick after. No worries. We haven't lost interest in mead!


Better brewing through science!
 
loveofrose said:
The fermentation process carried out by yeast is what causes the massive drop in pH. If your pH drops below 3, generally the yeast stall out and possibly produce fusels. To avoid this outcome, I generally add 1/4 tsp per gallon of potassium carbonate. Potassium carbonate serves to buffer the pH in order to prevent the must from dropping to the danger zone. (Bonus: potassium is a limiting nutrient in honey that increases the yeast alcohol tolerance. Two birds, one stone.)

Combining pH buffering with Staggered Nutrient Additions. (SNAs), I've fermented 1.100 musts to 1.000 in 3 days on occasion. You can look at my Bray's One Month Mead. (BOMM) for a good pH buffering/nutrient schedule example. It uses a specific yeast for mead in a month, but it works well for any yeast.

Fast ferments are generally clean ferments. If ferments go fast, it indicates your yeast are very happy with the environment. Happy yeast generate meads with less fusels leading to faster drinking mead!

Activity on the boards fluctuates. Before Christmas there is generally a lull followed by an uptick after. No worries. We haven't lost interest in mead!


Better brewing through science!
Click to expand...

Doesn't temperature also affect fusels? I have a BOMM that's going kinda slow given all I've read on it, but I think it has to do with temperature hovering at 60. I'm resisting the heating belt for it so far.
 
threeway said:
Doesn't temperature also affect fusels? I have a BOMM that's going kinda slow given all I've read on it, but I think it has to do with temperature hovering at 60. I'm resisting the heating belt for it so far.
Click to expand...

High temperatures can cause fusel production. It is a very yeast dependent issue. D47 above 70 F is a fusel machine while Wyeast 1388 is clean up to 80 F. I do find 70 F to be best for 1388.


Better brewing through science!
 
So now it's been 6 days and it's At 1.000. Very nice.

Regarding the bee pollen. In this batch I did use, dap, energizer and 3 heeling tablespoons of my own bee pollen. Also it was from a fresh stash we have frozen in the freezer which differs from what is available to the public because all pollen (most) is dried for preservation.

I don't know if any adverse affects could happen from so much stuff being added but full fermentation in 7 days speaks volumes IMO.

So I'm intrigued at just using bee pollen. Not needing any dap or energizer? Do you have experience with this? I'd like to have less ph issues that's for sure. But 30 grams per litre yikes that's a lot. Like 1.8lbs per 5gallon.

That would almost be enough to change color since my pollen has mostly yellow and maybe even taste?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, I have used it experimentally on a batch of traditional. In summary, it is a slower, more leisurely ferment that yields excellent taste, no pH issues, but it DOES leave a residual oily film on the fermenter, so be sure to use a pail so you can clean it. Here is the biggest thread (of several) about bee pollen as nutrient,.,,,
http://www.gotmead.com/forum/showth...ad-of-chemical-nutrients?highlight=bee+pollen

The science behind it is a study that is linked in that thread as well....
http://www.academicwino.com/2011/10/enhancing-sweet-nectar-effect-of-pollen.html/

Hive pollen collection....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXlE7hFvWG4
 
Last edited:
Well I will definitely have to find a time and place to try it. I have some really strong flavoured clover honey of my own and I want to make a show mead I wouldn't want any adverse flavours to exist.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
loveofrose said:
High temperatures can cause fusel production. It is a very yeast dependent issue. D47 above 70 F is a fusel machine while Wyeast 1388 is clean up to 80 F. I do find 70 F to be best for 1388.


Better brewing through science!
Click to expand...

then i'll add the heating belt and bring it up to 73. see what happens. it's been burning along for a 8 days now
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Barrel Char Wood Products

Viking Brew Vessels - Authentic Drinking Horns

Top Bottom