Started my first batch and have some questions

  • PATRONS: Did you know we've a chat function for you now? Look to the bottom of the screen, you can chat, set up rooms, talk to each other individually or in groups! Click 'Chat' at the right side of the chat window to open the chat up.
  • Love Gotmead and want to see it grow? Then consider supporting the site and becoming a Patron! If you're logged in, click on your username to the right of the menu to see how as little as $30/year can get you access to the patron areas and the patron Facebook group and to support Gotmead!
  • We now have a Patron-exclusive Facebook group! Patrons my join at The Gotmead Patron Group. You MUST answer the questions, providing your Patron membership, when you request to join so I can verify your Patron membership. If the questions aren't answered, the request will be turned down.
One-step is actually quite good as a mild strength sanitizer as well as a cleaner, but as has been noted in other threads, it may not be quite as effective as commercial equipment sanitizers (it kills micro-organisms with hydrogen peroxide, which is generated as the powder is mixed with water), and so the manufacturer doesn't want to make claims that are unsubstantiated. They also do not want to run through the full gamut of testing that would be required before the product could be certified as a sanitizer (expensive, and there is no guarantee of success in the testing).

Since I re-use commercial wine bottles extensively, I will tell you that I have had excellent success with my "two-step" process. First I soak the bottles in a one-step (or similar percarbonate cleaner) solution overnight, then I brush those that appear to have obvious gunk stuck to their insides, then I rinse with a solution of metabisulphite, then I bottle. Occasionally I will use Star-san instead of the metabisulphite (depends on how much of both that I have on hand), but the process is always the same for me. Clean with a percarbonate based oxygenating cleanser, then sanitize, then bottle.

#8 corks can be used in standard 750 ml wine bottles, but they will be at the limit of their elastic expansion capability, and as a result they will not last as long as #9 corks, which are more tightly compressed when they are in the bottle necks. So if you don't plan on keeping this mead for very long, you can use your #8s, but you will be better off with #9s in the future. Also, as you noted, the hand corker will be very difficult to use with #9 corks so you will eventually want to get a floor corker.

If your mead is dry then you will only need to add metabisulphite (and even that addition is a matter of personal preference - many dry meads have been successfully bottled with no chemical additions and they keep well). However if you do have residual sweetness (or you intend to backsweeten) then sorbate plus metabisulphite are recommended.
 
Wow! That was very interesting information on one-step! I really had no clue. I bought it without knowing any of that, and chose it in spite of others mainly because it came in powdered form. I bought my equipment in the US, but I’m from abroad, so it’s much safer to carry powder than liquid in my luggage. I will make sure to buy Star San or Iodophor next time I’m able! :)

Just to be sure I understood your two-step. You fill all the bottles with one-step and leave it over night, then scrub the ones that have residues, and then a quick rinse in metabisulphite. Correct?
And how do you peel off the bottle’s labels? I found this site but still would like to ask the personal opinion of who has actually done it…

Thanks for the info on the corks.. How long would you expect a “#8 3/4 First Quality Corks” to last without compromising the mead in a standard 750ml bottle?

I do have quite a bit of residual sugar. I’d also like to know if I have to wait some hours to bottle after the addition of sorbate and metabisulphite? Or can I bottle immediately after the addition? And should I add sorbate and metabisulphite directly to the must or do I mix it in a few ml of water previously to the addition?

And lastly I’d like an opinion about the transparency of my mead. As I said in my previous post, I did add a solution of Sparkolloid, but the solution became too consistent and when I poured it into the must, some bits of it didn’t mix and are still floating in the must. Since most of the photos I’ve seen are of light-honey meads, I wouldn’t know if my dark amber mead is transparent enough or not. And if not, should I try adding more Sparkolloid?

Here are two pics:



and

 
Yes - you have my bottle cleaning/sanitizing process correct.

I find that many labels come off of the bottles readily after an overnight soak in one-step. Those that don't, usually have employed one of the newer adhesives; they only come off for me by scraping off with a single-edged razor blade, while the label is still wet from the one-step.

You can bottle shortly after the sorbate/metabisulphite additions. In fact waiting too long (more than a few hours to overnight) would potentially be more harmful than beneficial, since you want the free sulphite level high enough to prevent malolactic bacteria from inoculating the mead and then beginning MLF in the bottle. MLF bacteria will metabolize sorbate to create geraniol - and that is bad. I usually pre-mix my sulphite and sorbate additions in a little distilled water. That makes stirring and dissolving into the main bulk of the mead easier.

The cork question is more difficult to answer definitively, since cork seals are dependent on more than the compression of the cork itself. All that I can say with certainty is that in my older meads (which were all corked with #8's) often many bottles from a batch lasted 2-3 years without obvious signs of oxidation, but very few bottles lasted much longer than that.

Finally, I believe that your mead is reasonably clear at this point (from the pictures) but it will clarify further with additional time. Adding more sparkolloid at this time may not help it along any further.
 
Word of advice, try to buy marbles or glass beads from a pet store, get something fish safe. Otherwise they may be coloured with chemicals that can leach into your mead.

You definitely want as little headspace as possible after primary is over.
 
Word of advice, try to buy marbles or glass beads from a pet store, get something fish safe. Otherwise they may be coloured with chemicals that can leach into your mead.

You definitely want as little headspace as possible after primary is over.

WOW that is really good info i would of never thought they used chemicals in kids marbles.....HOW ITS MADE needs to cover that one!! i will definetly keep that in mind!!!
 
WOW that is really good info i would of never thought they used chemicals in kids marbles.....HOW ITS MADE needs to cover that one!! i will definetly keep that in mind!!!

Well, every kids product in the world is made out of chemicals to be nitpicky! I think any marble could be safely swallowed, it would probably take a lot longer than a day or two for anything unpleasant to leach out, and even if it did leach, humans are pretty big, takes a lot of a poison to hurt us. Fish are small and live in the water that would sit on the marbles for very long periods, so you can see how it wouldn't work out so well for them!