Yup - I agree. Knowing the specific gravity of the batch as it sets now is the next step you should take. If you don't have a hydrometer, you should be able to pick one up at your LHBS for around $10-$15. If the gravity is at or below 1.000, then fermentation is complete - not stuck. NOTE: be sure to sanitize the hydrometer as well as any device (wine thief) you use to take a sample of the mead from the carboy.
You didn't say how long it has been in that secondary carboy, so your mead indeed might be finished fermenting. Also, lack of bubbles in the airlock is not a reliable indicator of fermentation activity. Check the SG several times over the course of a week or two. If it is slightly above 1.000, but stable at one value for all those readings, then the fermentation is essentially done.
If you used the "usual" Lalvin champagne yeast, then that is likely a strain called EC-1118. It is a fermentation beast, capable of taking this recipe fully dry and leaving you with about 14% ABV. It is capable of working musts heavy enough to produce 18% ABV to total dryness.
So, if your SG is significantly over 1.000 (say 1.010 or higher), your yeast stalled early. That may not be a bad thing, depending on where that SG is and how sweet (if at all) you want the result to be. If it is much above 1.020, however, it will probably taste cloyingly sweet. In the final analysis, the degree of sweetness that you are satisfied with when fermentation finishes is pretty much up to your taste.
A couple of things to note for the future -- don't rehydrate your yeast in anything other than water, or at most water with some rehydration nutrient, such as Go-Ferm, added. Rehydrating in a sugar solution will stress the yeast. If standard yeast nutrient containing inorganic nitrogen salts (such as Fermaid, Fermax, Super Food or pure DAP) is used during rehydration, you'll stress the yeast even more, potentially killing off most or all of the active cells. Yeast don't need nutrients during the rehydration process -- only afterward, once they're pitched in your main must.
One final thing to add to your list for the future is some way to check pH -- either pH strips, or a pH meter. One potential cause of stuck fermentation is the pH of your must dropping too low to allow it to sustain yeast activity. Generally if your must is below about pH 3.2, your yeast are being stressed. Much lower than that and they'll stall out.
Finally, the use of "organic raw" honey has little effect on the fermentation of your mead. It will give you a much tastier result than filtered or processed honey, though!
Hope this helps!
