Welch's White Grape Juice & potassium metabisulfite

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Intheswamp

NewBee
Registered Member
Oct 9, 2012
257
1
0
South Alabama
I've seen several threads with people using Welch's White Grape Juice. On Welch's website they state that they use no preservatives but then they go ahead and state that the white grape juice, the sparkling juices, and some of the concentrates all contain potassium metabisulfite...uh, ok. ???

It seems lots of folks have used the white guice in their meads. Are problems with fermentaions being slow or not starting at all commonly noted with this juice? Anybody have any anecdotal stories/experiences with using it?

Thanks,
Ed
 
I think by the time you're done aerating it etc. there won't be much left to bother your yeast. Sorbate, that's a problem that won't go away, but sulphites aren't permanent...
 
Moiving on to sulphite questions....

Thanks for the reply, CG. That sounds good. It sounds like the amount of sulphites in the white juice is too small to affect fermentation much at all. I may try some white grape juice later on. :)

I've got another question (probably a series of them) that relates more to sulphites than to the Welch's white grape juice. :)

I've read that often it is the sulphites that cause people to have bad hangovers and that some people are allergic to sulphites. You mentioned that there won't be much left after areation, etc.,. Are the times of bad hangovers and people having allergic responses to sulphites normally due to an over-use of sulphites or do the amounts required to stop fermentation simply leave enough to cause the problems (hangovers, reactions)?

Naturally folks want "natural" but I can see where sulphiting and sorbating is good in stopping fermentation to yield a sweet mead or before bottling to prevent bottle bombs. I'd like to go "natural" but... :confused:

Ed
 
Potassium metabisulphite is listed as an ingredient in most of the wine kits I've ever made.

Re: sulphites, everyone's different.

Personally, I get a less severe hangover if I overindulge in a stabilized wine, and although my lungs try to shut down if I inhale too much of my potassium metabisulphite sanitizing solution, I can drink a gulp of the solution straight with no problems at all (it was a siphoning incident, shut up :p).

According to what I've read here, most people who think they are allergic to sulphites aren't really, most of the time they're just sensitive to the tannins or something else in the wine. And sulphites can be a migraine trigger for some people, just like chocolate, red wine and nitrites, I know a whole family who is highly susceptible to sulphite migraines, but it's not an allergy... That said, some people are genuinely allergic and will suffer histamine or anaphalactic reactions from sulphites, and there are a few members here with that kind of issue who either forego their use entirely or try to see if there's a threshhold under which they don't react. Thing is, according to what I've read, sulphites are naturally occurring in wines, they're a byproduct of most yeast, just not in large amounts, some yeasts make more than others, EC-1118 being one.

I prefer to go as natural as possible most of the time so I hear where you're coming from, I only ever use campden tabs pre-fermentation on questionable musts and I don't often stabilize anything, I just leave it in the carboy for a year or two to make sure the yeast is done whatever it's going to do. It's totally up to you if you use campden before fermentation, but honestly most of the time there's absolutely no need if you follow good sanitization practices with everything that comes into contact with your must... it's kind of like an insurance policy in that respect, if it doesn't bother you, there's nothing wrong with doing it and it ensures that your yeast have the best chance they can have, but on the other hand, a good vigorous fermentation's gonna kick the butt of most other organisms that could be present.

You kind of have to weigh a few factors in deciding whether to stabilize: I've read that it does extend the shelf life of the finished wine, it allows safe backsweetening if a fermentation went farther than anticipated, it saves you a year or more on carboy space, allays any fear of bottle bombs, for me it decreases risk of hangover... I just always make sure to include on my labels whether any given batch has had any sulphite treatment, that way the person who drinks it can judge for themself whether it's a good idea and how much.

As for stopping a fermentation in its tracks, good luck. Yeasties can really have minds of their own. It's often easier to let it finish, stabilize and backsweeten, or step-feed more honey it till it finally gives up.
 
The sulfites are most likely there for color stabilization. White juices will brown quickly if you don't add some kind of antioxidant.

If you are wanting to get rid of them, leaving the container open but under airlock (or just put a piece of foil over the lid) will let the sulfites dissipate.
 
Not sure. I know that sulfites can actually bleach out red colors in certain pH ranges. The color stabilization for white juices is more just a "not brown", rather than trying to keep any particular color present.

Vitamin C is often used as an antioxidant, not sure what that does for color but it's worth a shot.
 
Thanks everybody for your feedback. My mead education continues. :)

Being the newbee here, I'm still trying to get the idea of what's going on and your comments help!

I picked up a 64oz jug of white grape juice this evening along with a 16oz bag of frozen blackberries...gonna try a variation on Joe's Quick Grape Mead uisng the white grape juice and jug of CG's blackberry mead. When I get all the stuff out I think I'll go ahead and make a jug of a traditional. All 1-gallon batches. I'll let the pyment and the melomel finish out and see which I like better...then go for larger batches. The traditional I'll stick back and let age on out.

I've got a 3.5 gallon bucket that I'm thinking of drilling the lid on and making into a fermenter...will use it for the blackberries, I'm thinking.

Ed