Yet Another Newbee

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daisyd681

NewBee
Registered Member
Jan 22, 2016
22
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Az
I posted in the JAOM thread last night, when I probably should have posted here (I blame the reisling). Anyway, because all of my fiber arts and jewelry hobbies apparently aren't enough I've decided to take on mead (and beer for the hubby to help keep me occupied while I wait on the mead. Lol)

I've been in love with mead since I was given some homebrew at a party many years ago, but the only time I can get it is at the Celtic festival in Flagstaff or when we go to Oregon. I'm not new to yeast. I've had my very own fridge pet (his name is Fred) sourdough starter for about a year now. I am new to any kind of intentional fermentation for drinking purposes though.

I'm not brewing JAOM specifically. I followed a very similar recipe from another site. I found this place after I got my first gallon bubbling along.

My brew is as follows:

2 lbs raw local wildflower honey
1 lb processed wildflower honey (it was the only way to get to the 3 lbs from the recipe)
1 peeled blood orange (I despise pith. I spend whatever time it takes to remove it when eating an orange.)
~25 raisins (whatever is in the Sunkist mini box)
1 packet Red Star Cote des Blancs yeast (recipe called for champagne yeast, but I like sweet and this said that it finishes sweeter)
1 gallon distilled water (no chlorine was what the recipe said. I didn't think about trace minerals at all)
I made it on the 19th and it's been at a steady 1 blip/5-7 seconds since.

I don't like the idea of a bunch of additives. It's not really a hippie natural thing (though there's a bit of that) it's more that I get a kick out of making things truer to their original methods.

I have some questions about yeast. I'm told that the 3 lbs was not enough to keep the yeast from drying this thing out. I read in the JAOM thread that Joe was talking about adding honey (he said 12 oz, then he said 8 oz) at the end to kill the yeast off. I'm assuming that this gives them enough food to kick it up to their ABV tolerance and thus yeast armageddon. Is this a feasible way to both backsweeten and prevent bottle bombs? How much do I add? Once the hydrometer gets here I think 1.02 will probably be me goal. I don't have a lot of space for carboys everywhere so the sooner I can bottle it, the better.

How does cold crashing work? I know yeast survive just fine in the fridge (Fred comes out perfectly willing to gobble up all the flour I give him), so what's the idea behind this technique?

I have space for 3 1 gallon carboys. 1 for beer and the other 2 for staggered batches of mead (gotta keep it flowing). My thoughts on the honey to kill yeast method are to put honey in a pot (no heat, just a convenient, sanitary container), rack onto the honey and let it dissolve while I clean out the carboy. Then I suppose I'd need to stir a little to get the honey thoroughly incorporated and pour it back in the carboy. Are there any problems with this plan? Does it expose it to too much oxegyn?

Sorry about the wall of text. I started with one question, but it escalated quickly.
 
As as side note, you can get some random meads and AZ local mead from Superstition Meadery (in Prescott, worth a visit) at the Whole Foods in Flagstaff. Got some there a couple weeks ago while driving through. It is good to have some commercial mead now and then to help train your senses to some other good stuff and give you ideas for your own batches.
 
Ooh! Thanks for the tip. I hadn't gone through the wine selection at Whole Foods since it switched from New Frontiers. The closest homebrew place to me is in Prescott Valley. I might just have to make a day of it.
 
So, I needed another carboy and instead of paying shipping on glass I decided to go to Sprouts and just buy a gallon of apple juice. Since it has nothing in it but juice, and I'm a waste not, want not type of girl, I'm going to try a cyser. :p

I've been playing with the calculator. The 3 lbs of honey should be enough sugar to take the CDB yeast to its outside ABV of 14%. That actually makes me feel better about the adding honey later plan as all but the most tolerant cells should be dead by then. How accurate are those tolerance ratings?

I'm not sure if I should just start a mead log at this point to record where this goes or just do it here so I'm not littering this possibly cockamamy plan all over the forum.
 
Keep a mead log regardless, but I'm not really the type to post a mead log either. Personal choice I guess.

Alcohol tolerance is approximate. The point at which the yeast actually quits depends on a variety of factors, including ABV, temp, pH, nutrients and feeding, how old the yeast was, how it was hydrated, what the yeast colony population is, the presence of other additives/adjuncts, and probably others I haven't thought of.
 
Nothing like trying to apply hard and fast rules to a living organism eh? I wrote everything I did down in a notebook when I did it. I guess I'll wait until there's something noteworthy one way or the other.

I like your sig. I have a Tolkien quote written in Gallifreyan tattoo.
 
JAOM works because it uses bread yeast. Cote des Blanc is a wine yeast (which will require nutrients).
 
That's what I understood was the purpose of the raisins. The recipe I am going off of called for champagne yeast which has normal nutrient requirements, and the CDB has high. I hadn't looked at that aspect when I picked the CDB. What happens if the yeast is a little starved? Should I add more raisins?
 
Can anyone tell me about adding honey at the end to, I guess, force finish the yeast? I'd really rather not add chemicals to an otherwise natural mead, but I don't want bottle bombs either. I have tried searching, but either I don't have the proper terms, or there's just not that much info on this. Can anyone at least point me in the direction of this info?

ETA: I'm also wondering if I need the preservatives since I'm planning on aging a bunch of bottles for Christmas. How do those that don't do sulfides stabilize and preserve?
 
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Adding sugars to take yeast to their alcohol tolerance is called step-feeding.
This will likely re-start fermentation and you will probably end up with a pretty high ABV. Will take some ageing to mellow.
Bottle bombs occur when you bottle before fermentation is complete or one of the limiting factors change after bottling and fermentation starts up again. These factors could be temperature increase, a increase in pH due to reduction of CO2 gas, or additional aeration. Most people recommended several racking over a period of time and a few weeks of stable gravity readings before bottling. I also like to bring the carboy up to room temp 20-22 C if it isn't already for a week or so to see if that will do anything.
 
Rack as often as you need to get the mead off of any meaningful sediment. Otherwise, racking does nothing but expose your mead to potential oxygenation. Only rack when it's necessary.
 
That's what I understood was the purpose of the raisins. The recipe I am going off of called for champagne yeast which has normal nutrient requirements, and the CDB has high. I hadn't looked at that aspect when I picked the CDB. What happens if the yeast is a little starved? Should I add more raisins?

Welcome from one 'newbee' to another. I'm on my first make also and doing a cyser for it. I don't think it hurt mine so far, but after adding my raisins I read the ingredients and found they had sulfite preservatives so maybe something we should both look out for in future brews. I noticed a slow down in my airlock and added some nutrients (experience warning: adding Fermax yeast nutrients to an active brew can cause foaming so you could get a bit of spillover :D )

Biggest thing I've read is when yeast gets hungry they start making fusels that you have to age out to mellow the flavour. You are welcome to follow my first cyser brew log to see how it turns out...mistakes and all lol.
 
Oh no! I bought a bag of the mini boxes and threw out the bag. I'll have to look at it next time I go to the store.

All this stuff about sulfites and headaches that I'm reading makes me wonder if the hubby is sensitive to them. He gets headaches anytime he drinks wine.

ETA: I'm still getting used to the way the threads organize here. I thought this would go under the comment about raisins.

At any rate, since I'm planning on storing 4 bottles from each of my fist two batches for Christmas, I guess it's safest to stabalize with chemicals since I want to bottle and get on with it as soon as possible. I thought I'd be well suited for the waiting part having tumbled rocks for many years. I suppose the difference is that while the results of the tumbler are fun to look at when they come out the most they'll really get me is a really cool looking fish tank someday. Mead gets me... well, mead. :D
 
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Between the alcohol and the citrus acid from the orange, I wouldn't worry about preservation.
I'm pretty sure raisins aren't going to provide enough nutrients.
If you take the mead bone dry (like, below 1.000) you shouldn't have to worry about stabilizing if you wait long enough, but if you want it semi-sweet or sweet you will. Just make sure it's totally done before bottling (like the comments said below -- gravity readings are crucial, then temp, etc.).
 
I like to go at least two weeks. If it's clear and my reading hasn't changed (and don't forget to correct your reading for temperature!) I call it good and bottle, unless there is another reason to bulk age.
 
I bottled some rose petal wine yesterday. It was in the carboy for about a year. On Christmas it was at 0.094. Last week it was the same. Yesterday it was the same, so I called it good and bottled it without stabilizing. One reason I left it so long is because in the past I've bottled once I knew it was done, but then sediment formed in the bottom of the bottle (can't store those bottles on their sides -- I'm not about to start rotating bottles). Just something to think about. Mazer is absolutely right, but I think sediment does matter, at least as far as presentation goes.
 
Thank you. I kept coming across people saying leave it for months and I was going "I want to make more than a batch a year". 2 weeks is doable. I'll risk it on the sediment if I can get going on the next batch. I should get 5 bottles out of each batch and the fifth will be mine, so the sediment should mostly end up in there if anything.

My batch is going about 1 blip every 6 seconds. It was at 5. I'm guessing that adding boiled sourdough starter would be bad. I could go grab some bread yeast. Can I just nuke it in a few tbs of water and add it? I don't have much head space in my jug.
 
Two weeks isn't enough time. Bubbles in the airlock don't tell you if it's done -- you need a hydrometer for that.
My recommendation is to buy another carboy or two and start a new batch while you wait (you might as well just embrace the addiction), and read the Newbee guide (search for it on this website).
I'm confused by the sourdough/boiling/nuking bread yeast. None of that is a good idea.