A question of water

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not mineral but spring water..

Hello bernardsmith:

If your spring water's origin is geothermal, I would be more concern on its sulfurs. I don't know sulfurs' influence on fermenting or aging. I suggest you to try both waters and after their clarification decide which one is better for you.

Saludes,

Me too, but we have mineral spring water and sweet spring water and the mineral springs are very sulfuric and some have very high sodium levels . The sweet spring waters are delicious. The locals who know about the source (and it is free) queue up 24/7 . I kid you not.
 
So is using distilled doing a true disservice to the finished mead or is it more of a personal preference? Does it really contribute to the mouthfeel as much as the amount of honey does?

I used distilled in my first batch because it was suggested that I do, not because I read that I should, but I wonder now why it was suggested? Is it because it imparts zero flavor? Hell, if I were going to use the best tasting water, Great Value is up there is up there in just general taste.

But I guess in the end how much does the type of water contribute to flavor when the predominant flavors are honey and whatever you add to it?
 
So is using distilled doing a true disservice to the finished mead or is it more of a personal preference? Does it really contribute to the mouthfeel as much as the amount of honey does?

I used distilled in my first batch because it was suggested that I do, not because I read that I should, but I wonder now why it was suggested? Is it because it imparts zero flavor? Hell, if I were going to use the best tasting water, Great Value is up there is up there in just general taste.

But I guess in the end how much does the type of water contribute to flavor when the predominant flavors are honey and whatever you add to it?

Water really has big influence on mead, the geographical origin of honey and water make each mead "unique"

Saludes,
 
So is using distilled doing a true disservice to the finished mead or is it more of a personal preference? Does it really contribute to the mouthfeel as much as the amount of honey does?

I used distilled in my first batch because it was suggested that I do, not because I read that I should, but I wonder now why it was suggested? Is it because it imparts zero flavor? Hell, if I were going to use the best tasting water, Great Value is up there is up there in just general taste.

But I guess in the end how much does the type of water contribute to flavor when the predominant flavors are honey and whatever you add to it?
Ok, so opinion is devided but it does seem that all booze making seems to benefit from "soft" water. There does seem to be a couple of definitions of "hard" water i.e. general hardness and calcium hardness (around here it calcium that creates the hardness as the water comes through chalk).

Anyway, there's also the old wives tales of minerals being good for you etc, and if its "spring"water it must be ok.

So, the spring water thing ? Is utter bollocks.

The mineral thing does have some limited truth, but people forget that you have to drink a lot of water that contains whatever mineral which is supposed to be good for you before there's any benefit, so that equally scotches that idea.

Now, on the basis that both beer makers and distillers have found the connection between calcium and magnesium salts in the water and a hint of harshness coming through in the finished product, I just use, what I understand to be the softest water I can get easily. Which is reverse osmosis water.

On the idea that I'll be making sure that my batches are properly fed with the appropriate nutrients and energiser to provide for their needs, it seems to work fine.

There's not a huge difference between distilled and RO water.

On the basis of availability, there is no reason why, using the axiom of "if you like the taste of your local supply then its fine" ? Yes I'd go with that as long as its either utility or has been tested as safe.

If nothing else, use of distilled or RO, creates a base to work from as its one less variable to contend with and the maker can focus more on getting the most from the ingredients who's variable nature is unavoidable i.e. the honey and any fruit, spices, etc etc.....
 
Somehow I've never liked the idea of using RO or distilled water. Doing so you need to add back certain salts, but that to me would be like trying to make honey by combining various pure sugars with a little water. There are all sorts of trace elements that we evolved to deal with in water, and distilling pretty much gets rid of the lot of them. If your water is hard, dilution with distilled or RO water seems like a good way to get it softer, but use of 100% RO or distilled I think of as depriving the yeast of a lot of the good stuff that you would never have on hand to add to the water even if you knew what it was.
 
Chlorine will dissipate just being left open to air (and would probably be driven off more easily with CO2), but chloramines are used specifically because they don't dissipate and I don't think CO2 would do it. As I understand, a campden tablet for 5 gallons is sufficient to convert chloramines into a form of nitrogen that yeast can eat, I'm guessing it releases the chlorine into the air. COLOR]



Hey so lemme jump in and ask a question too;

I'm having trouble getting some of my smaller batches to stay active. 1.5g batches and a 3g batch. They were all made using tap water, we have a carbon filter and a softener. The yeast was a variety (d47, 71b and a K1) and were all 1 packet per batch and rehydrated w/ GoFerm, and fed with Fermax.

I am so stumped I'm sure I don't know what to do. There IS one 5 gallon batch of blueberry that I did a full boil on, while the other batches had no boil. I'm wondering if Chevette Girl isn't onto something with chloramines. The one batch working well was boiled enmase, all 5 gallons. They just switched over to chloramines a few years ago- would a carbon filter remove chloramines?


BTW Chevette Girl- you know the little white package that says DO NOT EAT that comes in electronics and new shoes? mix about 1tbs per 2cups potting soil and you'll only have to water your plants 1 per month... :)
 
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I have a well (spring) on the farm though it's been disused for years so I'd need to get it tested. I've been trying to do that for months but finding the right Government department which looks after that is a nightmare.

Apparently I need to get it tested for about 30 different things - not least is pollutants and micro organisms, never mind the various trace minierals - so this is looking to be pricy. Still the idea of having my own water source is attractive - it bubbles up through granite and a metamorphosed schist so it's liklely to be as hard as nails though.
 
Hi,

It's very rural - and not far from the Mourne mountains. This is not necessarily a good thing beause of the intensive farming with a lot of slurry being applied to the land surrounding it. However the water in the spring is very cold (you couldn;t hold your hand in it for more than a few seconds) so I'm assuming the water is coming from quite deep down and it might escape any run off from the fields - here's hoping :)
 
Granite and shist means its likely softer. Hardness has a couple of values but is usually associated with calcium i.e. water through chalk or limestone.

Yours suggests moderate to neutral, unless the soils are quite peaty, then itd be soft.

Your analysis would need to be pollutant and microbial I'd have thought.......

And yes, being down here on the south coast means 252-500ppm calcium, ergo I use the RO I've already mentioned and nutrient/enerviser mix (above) to provide the feed and micro-nutrients the yeast needs.......
 
Granite and shist means its likely softer. Hardness has a couple of values but is usually associated with calcium i.e. water through chalk or limestone.

Yours suggests moderate to neutral, unless the soils are quite peaty, then itd be soft.

QUOTE]

That's encouraging - thanks - I really will have to get it tested.

Sorry to stray off thread topic